Los Palenqueros Are The Real Bros

Here is a breakdown of one of the newest mezcals on the market, bottled by the famous Italian importer Velier. They’ve secured small batches from some of Oaxaca’s very best. Several we know well, others are new to the states, but everyone represents about the best $80 you can spend on mezcal today.

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Palenqueros "Alberto Ortiz" San Pedro Taviche Madrecuixe Pure Single Palenque Mezcal (750ml)

Alberto Ortiz works out of the village of Bramaderos in Miahuatlan at 1652 meters above sea level. This expression is distilled from 100% wild Madrecuixe roasted in conical earthen ovens and fermented in naturally in pine vats. An impressive 1280 bottles in this batch were distilled on the small 350-liter pot stills over direct fire. Alberto has quietly been making several excellent brands including Mezcalero release #1 & #11 (two products which mezcal geeks would kill to have now. We’re on batch #23). The Madrecuixe for Yuu Baal Retail $120+ typically and distills Donaji, Papadiablo, and Cuerdros.

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Palenqueros "Baltazar Cruz" San Juan Del Rio Pure Single Palenque Tobala Mezcal (750ml)

Baltazar Cruz is in the village of San Juan Del Rio a famous village for mezcal in the Tlacolula region. At this altitude (955 meters), Tobala grows relatively plentiful. The pinas are roasted over oak and mesquite and crushed on tahona before being fermented naturally in pine and cypress vats. Double distilled in 300 liter copper pot stills by direct fire. 1159 Bottles were made at 48.5% abv. Senor Cruz is well known for high quality mezcal. You’ve probably had his Espadin in the Alipus blue label and his excellent mezcals have been selected for Mezcalero Releases #15, 19, & 21. He also produces the Sierra Negra release for the Marca Negra brand.

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Palenqueros "Juan Hernandez" San Pedro Taviche Tobaziche Pure Single Palenque Mezcal (750ml)

This spectacular Tobasiche is distilled by Juan Hernandez in the tiny pueblo of San Pedro Taviche. The Karwinskii type agave is hand harvested in the wild and roasted in traditional conical ovens. Milled by hand wooden hammer and stone, the wild agave is naturally fermented over 7 days in pine vats. Double distilled on 150 liter over direct fire, only 567 bottles were distilled of this very special mezcal. Juan Hernendez produces the excellent limited release San Pedro Taviche for the famous Del Maguey brand. That product combines Tobala, Espadin and Tobasiche, while this one includes just the single varietal component.

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Palenqueros "Rey Arellanes" Santa Catarina Minas Pure Single Palenque Mezcal (750ml)

This wonderful ensamble from Rey Arellanes in Santa Catarina Minas is absolutely delicious. Made from a blend of wild tobasiche and cultivated espadin, its bottled at still proof with no reduction. The process is ancestral although the bottle does not include that phrase. That means everything is done completely by hand. Roasted in conical ovens hand mashed with mesquite wood mallets on stone canoes. Naturally fermented in pine vats for 12 days before being double distilled on tiny 100 liter clay pot stills over direct flame. 423 bottles produced at 49% abv. Very few mezcal from Minas are available at this price point and none that I can find that with wild agave included. Minas is widely considered one of the very best villages and is devoted to ancestral production, but the small yields and extreme complexity of producing this way means that these mezcals command a serious premium. Rey Arellanes typically would only be found locally and a handful of Mexican negotiant style bottlers. We have never seen his mezcals stateside that we can tell.

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Palenqueros "Omar Nolasco" San Juan Del Rio Pure Single Palenque Espadin Mezcal (750ml)

This village is well know for high quality Espadin and the Nolasco name is very well known. We don’t know much about Omar Nolasco except that he’s making excellent Mezcal. This is classic cultivated espadin, but in the most classic style. Roasted over mesquite in conical earthern ovens and pressed by tahona powered by horse. Fermentation occurs naturally over 7 days in pine vats. The spirit is double distilled in 300 liter pot still to 55% abv.

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Palenqueros "Onofre Ortiz" Bramaderos Pure Single Palenque Ensamble Mezcal (750ml)

The wonderful mezcal from the palenque in Bramaderos run by Onofre Ortiz has never been exported to the US. Onofre is the son of Alberto Ortiz whose excellent mezcals have been featured in several prominent brands. This incredible blend of agave is made the old way. Using multiple varietals of perfectly ripe agave, roasted together for a unique expression that can never be recreated quite the same. Here Senor Ortiz selected wild and cultivated agave Espadin, Mexicano, Madrecuishe, Bicuishe and Tepextate roasted underground over oak and mesquite. Hand milled using mesquite mallets on stone and fermented naturally in pine vats. Double distillation in 350 liters over direct fire and bottled at still strength of 48% abv.

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Palenqueros "Valente Garcia" La Pila Pure Single Palenque Mexicano Mezcal (750ml)

Valente Garcia lives and works in the village of La Pila in Miahuatlan, Oaxaca. This batch is distilled from wild Mexicano (A. Rhodacantha) and roasted in traditional conical ovens. It's milled in a mechanical mill and fermented naturally in a combination of pine and cypress vats for 7 days. Distillation on small 350 liter copper pots over direct fire. This excellent distiller has been featured in a number of familiar brands including the hard to get Alipus Pink label San Andres as well as small batches for Mezcalero #3, 4, 6, 8, 16, 18, 22. His Mexicano was also selected for Mezcalero Special Release #2. His are some of the most prized mezcals in all of Oaxaca.

David Othenin-Girard