The Big Boy is Back

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No distillery has captured the public’s imagination like the fabulous malt from the little hamlet at the end of the road on Islay’s south side. The mythical malt distilled there was nearly lost forever during the 90s whisky duldroms and it was only for the strong will and determination of a few individuals in the industry that any whisky was distilled there at all during this period. Thankfully the distillery found a fine steward in new owners LVMH and has built an incredible following for once doomed distillery.

While some critics point to the lack of age statements on modern bottlings and their willingness to offer unusual and experimental expression, I find Ardbeg to be one of the most endearing operations in Scotland. We love the people, the place and most importantly the malt. And the cafe is pretty solid as well.

The stocks distilled in the “quiet period” are some of the oldest still available. Most everything older was sold to bottlers and blenders, but we haven’t seen an old expression of Ardbeg from an independent in the US for years. So when they drop bombs like these the whisky world takes note. Distilled entirely in the spring of 1996 and bottled in July of this year - The Ardbeg Twenty Somthing is the first truly badass Islay bottling of this year’s Whisky Season. The last release, which I liked slightly less than this one, was a sort of coup. No one expected it and no one expected it to do so well.

Of course they’re hard to get and some collectors scoffed at the high prices, but compared to some of the other old Islays (I’m looking at you Lagavulin) and considering the tiny quantity produced, the pricing is well within the realm of reason. Not to mention the last batch sold out in no time. More importantly it just tastes really really good. You’ll be hard pressed to find this kind of well matured distillery bottled peaty Islay experience anywhere else for less. 

Ardbeg 22 Year “Twenty Something” $550

 

David Othenin-Girard