Faith in Institutions

There are many different institutions within the booze industry. There are distillers, importers, brands, retailers, special societies, tasting groups, bottlers, and message boards--all of which can breed a certain level of dedication or devotion from their patrons. You might be a die-hard Jack Daniels guy, or a devout Kermit Lynch drinker, or a Signatory gal, or a dedicated K&L fan, or a member of some organization that comes together to celebrate whiskey. For whatever reason, something may have excited you about these various institutions, which caused you to want to be a part of what they were doing--to be associated with their activities. Involvement in such an experience can be rewarding (I like to think that our customers at K&L have a fun time tasting through our different selections and reading along with us on the blog). Overzealous faith and adherence to these organizations, however, can be dangerous.

When we start to believe that our association with a certain institution defines who we are and what we do, we run the risk of bringing out some of the worst possible human qualities and characteristics.

Elitism -- I can't tell you how many jerks have I met in my time at K&L who have condescended towards me and used their preferred whisky institution as the basis to do so.

Fanaticism -- I can't tell you how many insane people I have exchanged emails with who have poured through every single tasting note, blog post, and piece of information I have ever put into text in an attempt to prove me wrong, in the hope of discrediting my institution and thereby improving the reputation of their's.

Disillusion -- I can't tell you how many emails I get every year explaining to me that Ardbeg Committee releases are only for actual members of the Ardbeg committee. People -- these are marketing tools. They're not real committees with boards that make decisions based on the overall desire of its members.

I shiver in fear at the idea that any of our customers head over to their tasting groups, spouting off comments like, "I know David and David over at K&L. Yeah, they totally hook me up. I'm on their insider whiskey list, so I get special access." Ugh. Someone shoot me when that happens. I never want K&L to be the type of place that uses access to create class status among customers -- the idea that some customers are better than others. There's a great scene in the film The Zero Effect where Ben Stiller, the lackey assistant for Darryl Zero--the worlds greatest private detective--tells the overzealous, obsessive-compulsive slouth:

There aren't any GOOD guys. You realize that, don't you? I mean: there aren't EVIL guys, and INNOCENT guys. It's just - it's just... It's just a bunch of guys.

Zero is so obsessed with the idea of being a private eye that he breaks the world down into very divisive categories. I feel like whisky drinkers can sometimes do the same. Must-have bottles. Once-in-a-lifetime bottles. Everyday bottles. You get the idea. But, really, it's just a bunch of bottles. It's just whisky. We're just a retail store that helps you to find the ones you want and provides you with the options to do so. We're not a club. We're not a society. We're not a brand. We're not exclusive. Anyone can buy from us and we welcome absolutely everyone.

This seems to fly in the face, however, of what some whisky drinkers are looking for. Some people are searching for acceptance. Others hope for validation. Many want to have an experience unobtainable by the means of the mere casual drinker. That's all well and good--we are human after all. To take pride in your associations is great. To define yourself by your associations, however, and hope others will be impressed by your membership can be off-putting.

-David Driscoll


Bottle Shots

In stock now up North! Two new casks. Delicious. Heaven Hill is also ending their Elijah Craig single barrel program as of now, so this might be one of the last ones out.

Holy shitballs this Bowmore is good. I remember it being tasty, but I honestly did not remember it being this good. It's so fruity and oily, yet simultaneously smoky and phenolic. The best Bowmore we have of any kind right now. This will be in stock next week.

And we finally have our Royal Lochnagar with our bitchin' California heritage label designed by Hollywood customer Jeff Holmes. Jeff, you get a free bottle, of course. This one is very light, soft and fruity, but it's a sneaky whisky. Those in search of big power will certainly poo-poo its subtle sweetness. Those in search of delicacy won't be able to get enough. It is the Queen's whisky, after all. Her highness is a woman of elegance and taste.

-David Driscoll


More New Bourbon Casks

How are you holding up? Are the holidays getting to you yet? Remember we are here to supply you with a magical elixer called alcohol just in case you're having trouble taking the edge off after work. Family members are incredibly more tolerable after a couple of cocktails. It's really amazing! You should try it if you've never done it.

Com' on. What? Are you scared? Everyone's doing it! Don't be a loser.

OK, enough with the after-school-special-drug-pusher talk. We're really kicking it into high gear this week at K&L. Three new 20+ year old Islay casks, a pair of brilliant Kilchoman barrels, and now three new barrels of Kentucky Bourbon. Will the madness ever stop?! (HINT: No, it's never going to stop)

(NOTE: we've got more EC and EW hitting NorCal today, but the Four Roses will have to come up from LA since this was OG's cask -- which means you know it's good because his casks are always better than mine).

Elijah Craig 12 year old K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #431 Bourbon $26.99 -- It's ECSB Time! We spend a lot of time making sure that these single barrels from Kentucky are superior to the already excellent selections from our beloved friends in the Blue Grass State. This barrel was a clear winner in the most recent round of tasting. The nose explodes out of the glass, huge notes of exotic honey, high grade maple syrup, sweet tea, and dark baking spices. The palate brings on more spices balancing what seemed to be a syrupy monster on the nose with strong zesty clove/cinnamon blend. The spiciness mellows on the finish allowing the subtle sweetness to return. A real drinker from a cask the yielded only 10 cases. It won't last long.

2003 Evan Williams K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #869 Bourbon $26.99 -- Here we have another delightful cask coming from Heaven Hill. This one is coming in just under 10 years old, but it's got the complexity to make up for it. The nose is brimming with oak spice, minty sweetness, and an enchanting bouquet of dried fruits. On the palate what once seemed like a spice monster is much more subtle and balanced. Truly one of the most balanced casks of EW that I've come across. The palate isn't sugary per say, but we have absolutely no heat present and the soft oakiness is nearly over powered by the persistent fruit. Proof that bourbon can be one of the world's great delicate spirits.

Four Roses K&L Exclusive Single Barrel OESV Cask Strength Bourbon $64.99 -- This stupendous cask of OESV is the oldest we've yet procured from the fine Four Roses Distillery. Having visit Four Roses recently, it's clear that they do things quite differently. We plan to wade through as many barrels as Mr. Rutledge will let us taste to find the true gems like this barrel here. 12 years and 2 months (some bottles are mislabelled as 11 yo and 9 months, but it's all 12 yo+) in the barrel with a sadly tiny output of only 126 bottles. Despite the high proof this bourbon is soft as cashmere. It's round and rich with a creaminess that alludes to the high corn mashbill. The powerful spice resulting from more than twelve years in oak is seamlessly integrated into the complex bouquet of power fruit aromas. A monster by any measure.

And more good news! We just received our shipment of two Faultline casks a month earlier than expected, so that means those of you who ordered a bottle of the Royal Lochnagar or Bowmore "Palm Tree" should have the whisky in hand before Xmas. I'm expecting the in-stock product to be ready by Tuesday for those of you interested in picking one up.

I'll be back on the Redwood City sales floor today grinding it out. We've got a lot of other new products to tell you about, but I'll save that for another post soon. New mezcales, new tequilas, new whiskies, new brandies. new liqueurs, new gins.

Then I'm off to watch the Warriors take on the Rockets. Hopefully the sweet sound of Steph Curry's swishes will ease the ever-present angst within my body.

-David Driscoll


Epic Islay News

Ah.....Islay. That magical place where peated whiskies are born and where whisky lovers hope to die. As the shortage of mature malt continues to remove age statements from the bottle, we've been piecing together a deal that we think will get you excited about the olden days of Islay malts. Like 2007, eons ago, when you could buy things like 21 year old Lagavulin off the shelf -- on a whim.

We’ve been patiently waiting for the right pieces to come into place and for all the stars to align on this deal, and we think we’re finally there. We’re ready. We’re ready to unleash this monster.

Are you all ready?

As many of you know, we've teased the idea of three ultra-mature Islay casks since this past March, but we were never able to give any specifics. "Three ancient casks, reminiscent of what we used to see all the time back in the day, from the same warehouse as our fantastic Port Ellen cask a few years back." People were curious, we received a lot of email questions about the statistics, and we hoped the pricing would come down a bit so that we could actually make these affordable (although that's a relative term these days). That’s finally happened. Then there was the question of what we would have to do to get them released to us. If you ever hear anyone say, "There's no more old whisky in Scotland," they're not completely off-base. At this point, it's no longer about who will pay the most or who's got the most coin--it's only about access. Do you have the connections, the relationships, and do people actually want to do business with you? Luckily for us the past few years of hard work, loyalty, respect, and friendship have opened more doors for us.

Three doors, actually. Three very special doors that we weren’t sure would ever open up again on the island of Islay.

And what's behind door number one?

(drum roll please….oh, and please note that these are all pre-orders due in late March) (oh, and please also note that there are only 100 bottles of each available for pre-order)


1992 Ardbeg 21 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $299.99 (PRE-ARRIVAL PRICE) -- An ultra-rare, highly-coveted cask of rockstar Islay whisky: a 21 year old Ardbeg with all the smoke, salt, peat, and spice the distillery is renowned for. More than two decades in wood however have tempered this beast down to a very reasonable 49.6 percent, allowing one to sip easily without the addition of water. The wood has mellowed the intensity a bit, but it has also concentrated it. There are only 150 bottles available from this ancient cask and they won't last long. Independent Ardbeg bottles have become unicorns here in the spirits world. Luckily we're able to bag one every now and again to keep the magic alive. While they last....

Wow! That’s a pretty exciting door to start off with! Can door number two get any better?


1993 Laphroaig 20 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $159.99 (PRE-ARRIVAL PRICE)  -- A magical cask of 20 year old Laphroaig at 44.5% cask strength. This is quite a fun whisky, mainly because of the balance between the more-mellow mouthfeel and the concentration of peat and smoke. We've become big fans of older Laphroaig here at K&L simply because the slowly-matured wood influence works so well with the bright, fresh, and lively peat flavors inherent in the malt. This cask ranks alongside the best we've found from other bottlers and the price is quite reasonable as well. Only 139 bottles were available from this reduced barrel. They will reward those who manage to get one.

Geez! I’m not sure my heart can take another door. The Ardbeg was exciting, but the price on the Laprhoaig looks great. Can door number three even come close to these first two?


1980 Caol Ila 32 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $239.99 (PRE-ARRIVAL PRICE) -- The sister cask to our former K&L exclusive, a 1980 Caol Ila now two years older than when we last visited her. While our former cask was rather light on its feet, its older sister comes in at a whopping 57.1% and brings all the earthy peat you can handle. It's also classically Caol Ila with a rounder, fruiter palate from those famous, fat-necked pot stills. The price is in line as well with that offering. Our 30 year old cask sold for $199.99, so considering inflation, the increasingly-insane demand for whisky, and the extra few years, we think $239.99 is pretty reasonable. If 150 people agree with us we'll be sold out.

I was going to leave this Islay trilogy alone, letting the magnitude of these announcements sink in without any other distraction, but I figured, “This is an Islay blog post, so we might as well pile it all on.” I teased these on the blog earlier this week and, now that we have pricing confirmed and delivery dates scheduled, we can start offering pre-orders.

If there is one battle we're not willing to fight in the spirits world, it's the idea that "craft" whisky is better whisky. We don’t think being small makes your whisky better and we definitely don’t think it’s worth charging more. We don't think using quarter casks to mature whisky faster makes for better whisky. We don't think using organic grains or designer barrels make for better whisky either. What makes whisky better? Time. If you're not willing to let your whisky come around naturally, then you're not going to convince guys like David and me to support your stuff. Kilchoman, in my mind, is the one "craft" distillery that does it right. Their whisky is still young, but it's already light years beyond what we're seeing from standard Islay releases these days. There are reasons for this. They operate their still at a slow drip --that takes TIME. They only use standard size Bourbon and Sherry casks, which take TIME to mature. And they hired John MacLellan, the former distiller for Bunnahabhain, who has decades of experience from putting in his TIME! And they keep getting better. TIME is on their side and I am willing to pay more for a “craft” whisky if it tastes better. These whiskies are better than anything I’ve tasted from Islay this year, so that’s why we bought them!

When Val brought us these single barrel samples a few weeks back I didn’t plan on buying anything. After I tasted them, however, I was scrambling for him to find me more. These are the most exciting Islay whiskies of 2013. They’re not new or different, but they hearken back to a time when Islay whiskies were explosive, flavorful, and lit your mouth up like a pinball machine. I don’t mean with alcohol or brute force, either. I mean with flavor. With unbridled, pure, clean, undeniably-Islay flavor. You’ll find that happening in both of these casks:

Kilchoman K&L Exclusive Single Bourbon Barrel #172 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $99.99 (PRE-ARRIVAL PRICE) -- This Bourbon cask #172 is so delicate in mouthfeel, yet bursting with white pepper, smoke, and fresh peat that it almost seems unreal. At 60% it tastes like 45% because it's in complete harmony with a small dose of butterscotch on the finish and then a lingering floral note. At only five years of age it's more flavorful, satisfying, and exciting than anything I've tasted from any Islay distillery over the past year. It is AWESOME!

Kilchoman K&L Exclusive Single Bourbon Barrel #74 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $99.99 (PRE-ARRIVAL PRICE) --  This Bourbon cask #74 is zippy, lively, peppery, and bright with cinnamon red hots and bursts of sweet wood. It's like a mezcal made on Islay, but with more vanilla and sweetness. What's more amazing is the sheer drinkability at 59%. It's never hot, overpowering, or out of whack. This DESTROYS Ardbeg Uigeadail. It makes Lagavulin 16 look like a sick joke. It makes Laphroaig 10 irrelevant. It makes any standard Islay release look boring and out of date. Kilchoman is the future, my friends. Everyone else is living in the past.

-David Driscoll


Wine Geek Wine Spirits

Are you like me--fully into both the wine and spirits world? Completely enveloped in your cellar full of Bordeaux, yet simultaneously checking the fills on your single malt collection? Then this is where both of your worlds collide together into a netherworld known as fortified, aromatized wines. Port and sherry are still technically wine. Vermouth, on the other hand, falls into the spirits department here at K&L, which is fantastic for me because I'm obsessed with this stuff. My former mentor and ex-K&L German wine buyer Jeff Vierra left the store a few years back to open up his own import/distribution operation and he began representing the Louis/Dressner portfoilio: one of the most prestigious books due to its dedication to discovering all-natural, hand-harvested, unmanipulated wines from small farmers around Europe.

A few years back they added Mauro Vergano's products to their selection. We were all completely smitten here at the Redwood City store, but then the supply chain fell apart and we were out of stock for a long period of time. Finally, I heard from Jeff this week that the Vergano wines were once again available and that they had added a new Chinato and Vermouth Bianco to the mix. I was ecstatic. Now that they're in stock, I'm happy to report back with my findings on their quality: in short, they're enough to make any serious cocktail geek wet their pants. If you thought quality vermouth was only for sweet expressions like Carpano, you might want to check out this Bianco. I've been nipping on it for the last ten minutes and I can't get enough. Man, I can't wait to get home and experiment with this thing!!

I'll post a quick summary of each here, but you should visit the Louis/Dressner page for more info. Make sure you click on the little plus signs to expand each section and provide more detailed information.

Vergano "Luli" Moscato Chinato $46.99 - The wine used here is Moscato d’Asti with a higher alcohol content (more than 10%) compared to the ones that are commonly available. The Moscato comes from the prestigious winery of Vittorio Bera & Figli. Their Moscato’s fragrance and its full-bodiedness meld perfectly with the aromatic extract composed of citrus zest, cinnamon and vanilla. These fresh and sweet aromas are balanced by the bitter flavour of the China (Calisaya and Succirubra) which give it a persistent taste that is absolutely unique.

Vergano Americano Aperitif $36.99 - Think of the Vergano Americano as a traditional Vermouth/Bitter Piedmontese aperitif. It uses Grignolino as the base wine rather than Nebbiolo, and like most vermouths, it contains herbal and aromatic components. In order to transform a Vermouth into an Americano you have to integrate the herbs at its base with other more bitter ones like Gentianella, citrus zest like Bitter Orange and Chinotto.The result is like an Italian wine version of Campari or Cynar. Try using it in a Negroni or with soda and a twist. Absolutely lovely stuff.

Vergano Nebbiolo Chinato $42.99 - Made with Nebbiolo from Barbaresco that comes from the Rabajà hill. It is produced by Giuseppe Cortese’s winery in Barbaresco; this is a small-scale producer who produces excellent quality wine. The extract is the result of a complex mixture of aromatizing substances. Besides China in its Calisaya and Succirubra varieties, there are particularly bitter ingredients like Chinese Rabarbaro and Ginseng, while the aromatic component comes from spices and herbs like cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, coriander, bay leaf, etc. What makes this wine characteristic is the extreme persistence of its aroma due to its perfectly balanced ratio between sugar, alcohol and aromatic extract content.

Vergano Vermouth Bianco $42.99 - Vermouth is the only fortified and aromatized wine with a precise historical origin. It was first concocted 1786 in Turin by Benedetto Carpano. Since then the Vermouth has become one of the most famous drinks in the world both as aperitif or as an ingredient in cocktails. Its name derives from the German word "Vermuth" which means Absinthe, one of its main components. Originally, the base wine was Moscato, but different wines have been used over time. In the case of the Vergano Bianco, the base wine is a blend of dry Moscato and Cortese, another typical white grape of Piedmont. This mixture gives a correct balance between acidity and flavor.The mixture of herbs and spices is very complex, dominated by herbs such as thyme, marjoram, basil, oregano that provide fresh and aromatic notes. The Absinthe component mainly in the variety "Gentile" contributes to the bitter taste. As is the tradition Vermouth should be light yellow, clear, sweet. while also bitter and fragrant.

-David Driscoll