Navigation
Friday
Oct252013

Kentucky: Day 4 – Ghost Distilleries

Driving down the road near Woodford Reserve outside of Versailles, you'll come upon the former Old Taylor Distillery which operated from 1936 to 1982. It's right on the road. You can't miss it. There's a barbed wire fence surrounding the site, but it's easily navigable.

Before Old Taylor Distillery was known as Old Taylor Distillery, it was known as James C. Johnson distillery. No one is sure when the distillery along Glenn's Creek was founded, but it's believed that a distillery of some sort was located here from about 1816 on. It was sold in 1879 to Jacob Taylor, whose brand of whiskey was called, originally enough, J.S. Taylor. Jacob's father was a man known as Edmund H. Taylor and in 1882 he bought his son out of ownership. The name was quickly changed to E. H. Taylor & Co. and he operated it with his sons from that point on until Prohibition.

You've got to be careful if you approach the old Taylor site because there are holes surrounding it that drop down dozens of feet into oblivion. It's a completely abandoned facility, to the point that it feels like you're in a horror movie just waiting to happen. Silent Hill or Resident Evil could easily be filmed on location here. It's a very uneasy feeling.

The giant warehouses still stand solemnly in the distance with broken windows revealing nothing but darkness. The campus itself is huge and it goes on down the road for a mile or so.

Across the street from the main entrance are a few fully accessible office buildings. The windows are broken and the roofs are caving in, but you can easily enter at your own risk.

If you've got the guts you can really explore the facility. But you are in the middle of nowhere without help if you should need it.

Please, feel free to navigate from room to room. If you feel like being butchered by a hockey mask-wearing psychopath, that is.

Ka-kaw! Ka-kaw! Yep. Something bad is about ready to happen.

There is so much debris still relevant to the old operation that it's a wonder no one has come to clean it up and dispose of it all. 

There are all kinds of ledgers, receipts, and records dating as far back as 1968 just sitting there on site. It's totally surreal. 

And then there's this house just sitting back deep in the woods, totally abandoned and waiting for some silly tourist to come wandering in. If there are such things as ghosts then this is most definitely where they live.

Keep driving down the road, however, and you'll turn up at ghost distillery number two: Old Crow. Oscar Pepper built this distillery on Glenn Creek in 1860 and his primary brand was Old Crow. Four years later, however, Pepper died and E. H. Taylor was made executor of the estate. By 1870, Pepper's son, James E. Pepper, was able to take control of the operation with the help of Taylor, until the site was bought by the W. A. Gaines Company in 1878. After Prohibition, the distillery was bought and renovated by AMS and then run by its successor: National Distillers. National folded in 1985 and the site is now used by Beam for warehousing space.

Beam may be using the Old Crow warehouses for maturation, but they're sure not using this one.

The stillhouse is visible, but only from far behind a chain link fence. The whole area is totally creepy, so don't go alone. Especially this close to Halloween.

-David Driscoll

Friday
Oct252013

Kentucky: Day 4 – Wild Turkey and More Barrels

Morning in Lexington. We were all pretty tired after a long day and a late night, but we braved the 27 degree weather, coffeed up at a nearby Starbucks, and loaded into the car for our drive out to Wild Turkey.

Of all the distilleries we've visited in Kentucky, Wild Turkey is in perhaps the most pristine and picturesque location. The bridge over the Kentucky river reveals the new visitor's center and the rolling green hills spread out along the 700 acre estate. The morning air was cool and crisp as we exited the car and walked into the main office to meet up with Eddie Russell, son of legendary WT master distiller Jimmy Russell.

Jimmy Russell is in his 59th year working in the whiskey business and he's one of, if not the most, respected distillers in the history of Bourbon. It's because of his dedication for tradition and his unwillingness to change, even in the face of corporate takeovers, that Wild Turkey has stayed true to one recipe and one singular vision. While Buffalo Trace, Four Roses, and Heaven Hill get a lot of love from the insiders –with the Pappys, the Parkers, the Staggs, and the cask strength, limited edition releases– I don't think it will be much longer before Wild Turkey joins that bunch. Now that Eddie has pushed for more single barrel, higher proof edition editions from Campari, we're about to get a much closer look at what the Russells can really do.

The new distillery at Wild Turkey has been in operation since 2010. The old site nearby, where everything currently in bottle was produced, has since been demolished. It's one of the cleanest and most utility-focused facilities we've ever visited. Everything is centered on quality control.

Wild Turkey's fermentation room is a huge open space full of stainless steel tanks. The Russells do not specify what the mash bill for their Bourbon whiskey is, but they do say that it's a "high rye" recipe. They start by cooking the corn, then adding in the rye, and finally the barley to unleash its enzymes. Wild Turkey, along with Four Roses, is one of the few distilleries we know of that is still refusing to purchase GMO corn. They've been sourcing their corn from Bagdad, Kentucky for 45 years and refuse to go elsewhere. Their rye is imported from Germany (after the midwest switched over to soybeans it was tough to find high-quality rye), and their barley is from a farm in South Dakota.

Again, like Four Roses, Wild Turkey cultivates its own yeast at the distillery using the dona tub (rather than dump in dried commercial yeast) and they've been using the same strain since 1950. Jimmy Russell, like Jim Rutledge, is adamant about the role of yeast in the ultimate flavor of the whiskey. Eddie said people had been trying to talk his father out of it for years, saying it didn't matter what type of yeast he used. I find it amusing that there are people out there who want to tell a master distiller with 59 years of experience what does and doesn't matter in whiskey production.

After touring the distillery, we walked with Eddie over to the oldest warehouse on the campus – the Bonded A rickhouse built in 1890. It was time to do some barrel tasting with Eddy.

We entered to a row of barrels that had been pulled in anticipation of our arrival. Eddie got his wooden mallet and began banging the side of the bungs, popping out the corks, and filling our glasses with sweet, single barrel, cask strength Wild Turkey Bourbon. All of the whiskies were fantastic and showed incredible range. Some were smooth and mellow like candy corn, others were peppery and spicy. One was really reduced with big, chewy, tannic wood on the back end. Another was light and aromatic.

Although it's still under construction, Jimmy Russell wanted to show us the new visitor's center that will be opening soon overlooking the hills and river beneath it. At 79 years of age, the man is still going strong, travelling all over the country quite frequently in support of his brand. He had just returned from a big event in Las Vegas, but he was as enthusiastic as ever. It's really quite an honor to listen to him speak and talk about the old days of Bourbon production. I'm hoping we can do a podcast at some point.

The architecture of the new building is really cool. I think the whole experience is really going to change the way consumers feel about Wild Turkey whiskey because the approach is more modern, but without sacrificing any of the great tradition of the brand. The whiskey is much more complex than the standard 101 stuff lends on, but we rarely get the chance to taste the singular versions of it. Personally, I was completely blown away by our visit. I'm very, very excited to start working more closely with both Eddie and Jimmy. Again, far and away the best whiskey we've tasted on this trip was at Wild Turkey.

After leaving Lawrenceburg, we had to back track to a few other appointments. We had a 1 PM meeting with Max Shapira over at the main Heaven Hill offices in Bardstown, then we needed to do some barrel sampling with Jim Rutledge at the Four Roses Cox warehouses. We stumbled on to a run of OBSO barrels that really riled us up. For some reason the sweet cinnamon spices and lighter richness levels were really popping our palates. We took three barrels instantly – two 10 year olds and an older 11 year cask. All really fantastic.

After that is was time to explore. I was shocked by what we found down the road from Woodford Reserve near Versailles. There's an entire blog post that needs to be written about Kentucky's ghost distilleries. Some of these places are just plain haunted looking. We were all shocked at the manor in which they had simply been abandoned and left alone. Maybe I can write this up tomorrow. We've still got one more day and quite a lot to do.

Until then!

-David Driscoll

Friday
Oct252013

Kentucky: Day 4 – A Few Notes

There's a lot information I've written down over the last few days that I haven't been able to fit into the general posts, for which I have about 45 minutes each to write. It's not easy to edit both photos and pump out a stream-of-consciousness article when you're in a hurry, so not everything makes the cut.

One story I thought was very interesting from yesterday's visit was Jim Rutledge's account of an evening in back in 1996 when they forgot to add barley to the mashbill. We always talk about corn and rye, or corn and wheat, when we talk about the contents of Bourbon, but the barley plays a very important role. Corn is a starch that can be converted to sugar, and eventually to alcohol, but the proper enzymes need to be introduced. When we chew on starch our saliva helps us with that process. When you're cooking a mash for fermentation, barley helps to provide those enzymes (so can commercial enzyme powder if you're lazy), so it's absolutely vital to the process. For some reason that night, either by absent-mindedness or a mechanical failure, the barley wasn't dropped into the mash and the cook took place with just the corn and rye.

By the time Jim's assistant notified him of the problem, the corn and rye mash had been cooking for long enough to turn into a sticky goo – about the consistency of peanut butter, according to Jim. It was a mess. They had to start pumping cold water into the tank as fast as possible so that the goop wouldn't make its way into the pipes and clog up the entire operation. As enzymes break down the sugar they help to maintain the viscosity of the mash. Without that process the whole batch can turn to sludge. The fermentation time at Four Roses is about 80 hours per tank, which seems crazy to me because most distilleries in Scotland are doing it much faster. Oban's ferment time is also 80 hours and they're notorious because of that. It's one of the reasons they claim their whisky is so light and fruity. Jim feels the same way about Four Roses. "If you're looking for just the straight alcohol there are faster ways of doing it," he said. Obviously he's looking for more than that.

-David Driscoll

Thursday
Oct242013

Kentucky: Day 3 – Lawrenceburg/Frankfort

Full disclosure here: I am a big Four Roses fan. I love the whiskey. I love the man who makes it: Jim Rutledge. I love everything about the way they do business. They're the only distillery in Kentucky that will bottle single barrels at cask strength for K&L private selections and they have impeccable customer service with their retailers. Needless to say, I was very excited to finally get a chance to see the distillery and take a tour with Jim. We arrived on a cold, cloudy morning and quickly rushed inside to escape the chilly wind.

Jim Rutledge is one of the most knowledgeable and friendly distillers in the business, but that doesn't mean he's without strong opinions. He's very clear about what in his mind constitutes a quality Bourbon whiskey. While he admits that the recent Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch is one of the best whiskies he's ever tasted, he doesn't think the outstanding flavor had anything to do with the maturity. You can see from the above diagram that Jim firmly believes Bourbon tastes best in between the six and eight year old age gap. In fact, although the current 2013 FRLESB whiskey is a marriage of 13 and 18 year old casks, he claims he was very close to approving a different marriage using much younger stock. "It's not about the age," he said. "It's got nothing to do with that." I absolutely love that he's passionate about spreading that message. It means a lot more coming from him.

Having worked decades for Seagrams, and eventually through Kirin's takeover of the Four Roses brand, Jim has done and seen it all. He watched Seagrams ruin the Four Roses name, turn it into cheap blended "rotgut," as he calls it, and eventually bankrupt itself in the end (he still keeps a momento of the Seagrams LDI blend on his office mantle as a reminder). The reputation of Four Roses as a Bourbon brand after Prohibition was in very good standing. During that period you could still get a pint of Bourbon every ten days if you had a doctor's prescription and one out of every four "patients" chose Four Roses as their "medicine." When the ban was lifted Four Roses quickly became the nation's top brand. Seagrams made its fortune by purchasing Canadian whiskey during Prohibition and amassing an arsenal, ready to unleash at the right moment. Once the ban on alcohol was lifted, they became an overnight giant in the industry. Four Roses was better known than Seagrams, however, so the Bronfman family set their sites on acquiring the name. Decades later after doing so, the Four Roses reputation was in the toilet and the brand wasn't even being sold in the country where it was made.

For years and years Jim attempted to persuade Seagrams to focus on making Four Roses Bourbon again, rather than blended whisky. Ironically enough, the whiskey being made at the Frankfurt distillery went into Seagrams VO, while the LDI and Maryland distilled spirits went into the Four Roses blended. It wasn't until Jim proposed making a whiskey under a different name, say Bullitt County Bourbon, that Seagrams perked its ears. Unfortunately, they soon discovered that the name was too close to another trademarked brand by a small producer named Tom Bulleit, who was contracting his whiskey from Buffalo Trace. Rather than come up with a new name and use Jim's experience and ingenuity to create a new and exciting whiskey, Seagrams spent the money to buy out Tom Bulleit's brand instead. Eventually, Seagrams own misteps ran the company into the ground and Kirin bid for the available Four Roses brand and distillery. Diageo soon picked up Bulleit and Jim was free to get back to work on rebuilding the Four Roses Bourbon brand in America. In 2007, he walked into K&L and tasted us on his first creations. We've never looked back since.

If there's one person to help talk you through distillation, it's Jim. Here we were yesterday thinking that Willett's column still to pot still process was an anomaly in the Bourbon business, but it's not. It's just that no calls the second part of Bourbon distillation a pot still – they call it a doubler (but really it's just a pot still, as you can see). The beer goes into the beer still (or column still), which was pictured in the previous photo, at about 8% ABV while steam pushes through a series of plates that will eventually strip the alcohol to 65% when it reaches the top. It's then condensed into the "doubler" and increased to around 70%. This is why we need to visit the actual distillery of each brand we sell. You think you understand something, explaining it to customers day-in and day-out, until you find out you really don't totally grasp it. I didn't, at least.

Whereas some producers focus on distillation and others on barrel maturation, yeast seems to be Jim Rutledge's biggest passion. He's as excited about yeast and it's potential to create great tasting Bourbon as anyone I've ever met in the industry. Four Roses is renowned for using five different types of yeast and part of the reason goes back to the old Seagrams days. Seagrams had a research and development department totally dedicated to exploring the effects of different cultures in spirits distillation. This was partially because they would purchase a brand, but close the distillery where the brand had formerly been made (Henry McKenna, for example, which had been made at Fairfield distillery). Rather than operate an entirely different plant, they would use different yeast strains to create different flavors to help separate their newly purchased brands – a practice that was carried over to Four Roses. 

Today there are five different yeast strains fermenting in giant red cedar vats at the distillery. There are also a few stainless steel tanks as well. Jim is a stickler for making sure the mash cook and fermentation process have taken place correctly. If the spirit doesn't taste right coming off the still, they'll discard it and sell it off to a rectifier for vodka. They have a panel to decide whether or not a spirit is worthy of going into barrel. If they vote down a batch of distillation it's $30,000 worth of profit they're losing. Jim says this can happen almost every day. In order to keep things fresh, Four Roses creates a new strain of yeast culture every single week. Compare this to other distilleries that are dumping enzyme formula and bags of dry commercial yeast into their tanks with each cook and you'll really start to understand how seriously JR takes his whiskey.

The Four Roses warehouse buildings are not at the distillery site, so we decided to come back tomorrow to do barrel sampling at the Cox facility. In the meantime, however, we were starved. This place looked amazing from the highway. And it was. Mmmmmm.......pulled pork with cole slaw and baked beans.

Buffalo Trace distillery is like something out of Upton Sinclair's The Jungle or a scene from an old mobster movie. We were waiting for trenchcoated men with tommy guns to step out of a side alley at any moment. Much of the distillery, formerly known as George T. Stagg, was built in the late 1800s and is like a functioning museum. Much of the equipment onsite hasn't changed since Prohibition and the huge campus, about 100 acres, seems like a Hollywood studio. It's really a sight (and site) to see.

Every building is made out of red brick and no matter where you look there's steam coming out of some pipe or window. It looks absolutely amazing against the stark grey sky.

Walking through the distillery's innards is like moving through the inside of an old U-boat or some contraption from the Henry Ford museum. Staircases lead up through metal casings as smoke piles out of vents in the floor. I really couldn't get enough of it.

Buffalo Trace's beer still is like a rocket silo. It's absolutely huge! It towers up several stories and really manages to crank out some serious distillate.

Their "doubler" is nothing like a pot still, but rather like an Apollo moonrover. 

They also have this giant thing outside called a "kettle" still that they sometimes use to finish off their Rain vodka. I'd never seen anything like it.

There's also a distillery within a distillery at Buffalo Trace. Harlan Wheatley had this little experimental pot still installed a while back and the room was named the "Colonel Taylor Jr. Distillery" – a place where they can play around with things like rice and oats without having to take time away from their normal production. This is also the still that ran 159 times to create the Clix vodka. Can you imagine having to do that 159 times?

Of course we raided the warehouse to find some tasty Buffalo Trace samples. The shortage of whiskey is no secret at the distillery. There's nothing in the gift shop besides 1.75L bottles of Buffalo Trace, Rain vodka, and the Bourbon Cream. No Weller, no Eagle, no Elmer, no Blantons....nada. They're totally wiped out for the year. We did find some tasty BT selections, however.

And what the heck is this? Peated malt whiskey from Buffalo Trace? Yikes! Can't wait.

That's it for today!

We've got a lot to do tomorrow in a very short amount of time.

-David Driscoll

Thursday
Oct242013

Bardstown Beckons

Popoo got into the spirits game the moment prohibition ended. While he had dabbled during prohibition and certainly sold perscription alcohol through his pharmacy, he was certain the country was headed toward repeal in the months leading up to the ultimate demise of the Volstead Act. His first endeavor was to purchase a beer distributor affiliated Los Angeles Brewery. This quickly moved in to rectification and his first brand, Hollywood Gin. I might try to recreate that one day! Apparently, that went well so he started to develop cordials and shop the market for other products to sell. He spent the next 20 years distributing spirits throughout Southern California and Arizona. He became very close to the famous Al Hart, who developed some of the eras biggest brands and is still remembered by some here in Kentucky. Sometime in 1951, Ben Maltz of Chicago offered Popoo the opportunity to buy the Glencoe Distillery in Bardstown. It was actually the second Glencoe Distillery (KY-4 & KY-230 according to Sam Cecil), the original being in Louisville and sold some famous brands like Old Bardstown & Old Fiddle. The capacity was nearly 100 barrels a day and had more than 40,000 barrels aging in it’s 80,000 barrel warehouses. To give you a context Heaven Hill produces 1000 barrels a day and the little Willett Distillery is pumping out a solid 22. There was also a new bottling line and access to the Glencoebrand despite the fact that the original distillery was still owned by National Distilling Co.

 His first visit to Bardstown to check out the condition of the distillery, he describes a picturesque little town, just a quaint as we found it today. The distillery was 5 miles outside of town, located in Nelson County. Nelson County was famous even then for making the best Kentucky whiskey. Among the legitimate distilleries operating at the time (Weatherfill & Frazer, Heavenhill, Beam, Barton, Dant, etc.) there were stillmany illicit alcohol producers set up throughout the county’s hilly countryside. According to Al, the few liquor stores in the county had nearly gone out of business and would have gone under if not for the illegal sale of what he calls, "white mull." He made sure to describe just how vile this backwoods whiskey really was, although apparently that's all locals drank at the time. While homemade hidden stills chugged 

Old Glencoe warehouse still in use by Heaven Hillalong producing illegal hooch, the gleaming Glencoe Distillery was in impeccable shape on his arrival. Ultra clean and organized, the distillery managers name was Ned Simpson, who my grandfather admired greatly for his efficient management style. He was also enamoured with the fact that the "distillery slop" or the spent mash could be sold to the farmers around the distillery. One of his first moves was to actually start charging the neighbouring farm nearly twice as much for the slop, which they'd been getting at wellbelow market prices. He was promptly served with an injunction and forced to sit down with the farmer, a lawyer, and the judge to hash out an agreement. The farmer reluctantly agreed to accept slightly higher price and concead that there was no legal reason why the price shouldn't be raised. Certainly, Popoo was a bit of hardass when it came to getting what he thought he deserved. Of course, these days distillers give that nutritious by product away to anyone willing to haul it out of there.

No surprise that he mentions the most incredible southern fried chicken and cornbread in Bardstown. He actually describes this meal more than once, although I can't tell if he's describing subsequent visits or just reminding us how good it was. After seeing the incredible potential of the distillery he returns to Los Angeles to contemplate the sale. Needless to say, he contacts his fellow investors and immediately sets out setting up financing. He also enlists my grandfather to take over as head of the distillery, who quickly moved my mother to Kentucky to begin studying the distillery and it's innermost workings. After seeing this special little town and seeing the rundown remains of the distillery he once owned, I know exactly why he made the decision. I mean 40,000 barrels and a distillery for his first trip to Bardstown. Let’s see if we’ll be as lucky!