Scotland – Day 3: Machir Bay

Just around the bend of Loch Indaal from Bowmore is the road to Kilchoman and Rockside Farm. You head north across the Rhinns of Islay peninsula until you can see Machir Bay and the expanse of the North Atlantic. The distillery is situated directly next to the farm, which is equipped with cattle and fields of barley that stretch away towards the hills in the distance. It's a quiet location, just down the road from Bruichladdich, with little pomp or evidence that you're visiting one of the best whisky producers of single malt whisky in Scotland. It's a simple homestead. A quaint enclosure that feels as cozy as it sounds.

Inside the main building a man named Anthony Willis is malting some Rockside barley the old fashioned way. He's still learning about the process, making adjustments after milling, but his team is getting better at it. They've managed to increase the volume of liters produced for their 100% Islay distillate and the quality seems to get better with each run. Every week two tons of barley from the farm next door are soaked and spread out on the floor until the husks are nice and dry. Every Tuesday they're shoveled by hand into wheelbarrows and transported into the kiln for peating.

Anthony Willis isn't a distiller. That's why he hired John McLellan away from Bunnahabhain. However, Anthony was formerly an independent bottler of single malt whisky and, as the industry began to lock down, refusing to barter its whisky the way it once had, he was able to read the writing on the wall. He needed to control his own supply, so in 2001 he began raising money for a distillery. He had the location in mind, he knew the farmer he wanted to work with, and he knew the style of whisky he wanted to make (being a big fan of Ardbeg). He also realized that, due to the financial hardships of founding a new distillery, he needed to create a spirit that would taste better in its youth. So he got the money, brought in an expert consultant, and designed a compact distillery with a special still that would create a lighter, sweeter, fruitier style of whisky meant for drinking sooner than later. He wouldn't know if the design had worked, however, until actually operating the machinery.

Being someone who sourced single barrels of Scotch for a living, Anthony also understood the importance of good wood. That's why, upon founding the distillery, he immediately struck up a relationship with Buffalo Trace in the U.S. and Miguel Sherry in Spain to being purchasing their left over casks. Quality whisky could only be created through maturation in quality cooperage and today Kilchoman still uses barrels from both producers exclusively (80% of its new make goes into ex-Bourbon, 20% into the Jerez butts). 

In 2005, Anthony's team fired up their very special spirit still and began producing whisky at Kilchoman – Islay's farm distillery. Almost ten years later they're slowly gaining recognition for their hard work. It hasn't been easy and many consumers still don't believe that what they're doing is worth the price, but at five and six years of age Anthony's single malt whiskies are beginning to beat out more mature Islay malts in head-to-head competitions and award panels. Every batch they distill is more polished and each release tastes better than the previous one.

"It's definitely coming together," Anthony told us as we stood together in the still room. "We're almost where we want to be."

It's no secret that I'm a big fan of the Kilchoman whiskies. But I'm also an admirer of Anthony himself. Kilchoman is the distillery that we would have built if David and I could have developed our own K&L spirits facility. Anthony's goals, viewpoints, and philosophies are completely in tune with our own. He's a guy who gets whisky, who gets the business, and who understands what whisky fans want. He's smart enough to know that the only way to breakdown the consumer dependence upon age statements is to simply provide better whisky without one.

"Ten years ago this wouldn't have been possible," Anthony said. "We're succeeding because of a much more open-minded view from drinkers who are more educated than ever."

He credits Ardbeg for paving the way, but I think Kilchoman's recent releases have done more to convince drinkers about the potential of young peated whisky than any other distillery's efforts. Case in point: the new edition of Loch Gorm headed our way in the near future. is good. We all sat there looking at each other, nodding our heads. 

"It's much better than our last batch," Anthony said, reading the expressions on our faces.

"No shit!" I replied. "It's twice as good. The sherry is more integrated and everything is much more in balance."

Kilchoman is doing so well that they're running out of space for warehousing. They recently erected a new dunnage site down the road from the distillery, on the way towards Bruichladdich, to help ease some of the pressure and provide more room for extra casks. They've increased their capacity for fermentation as well and they'll be adding another mash tun shortly to help maximize the distillation potential.

Since we just received two incredible Bourbon casks of 2008 distillate from Kilchoman, we decided to focus on tasting some new 100% Islay casks from Rockside for possible K&L exclusives. More on that later.

For now all we can think about is that amazing new batch of Loch Gorm! Lucky for those of you coming to our sold out dinner in a few weeks, Anthony told me as we were leaving that he plans on bringing a few bottles with him when he comes. It looks like he'll be debuting it at the event. 

Lucky for you, indeed!

-David Driscoll

NOTE: Read Kyle's take on Kilchoman here at the main site.


Scotland – Day 3: Morning Views

I get notoriously bad jet lag when I travel over more than a few time zones. I don't necessarily tire out or feel sluggish, as much as I just don't sleep for the first few nights. I'm usually up at around 4 AM during the initial mornings before settling into a more normal schedule towards the end of the stay. For that reason, when I learned that two of us would have to share a room at the Ardbeg house, I panicked. Not because I mind sharing a room, mind you, but because I knew that I would be up stomping around at ungodly hours, disturbing the poor soul with the misfortune of bunking with me. All of us were having trouble sleeping, and I didn't think a lack of privacy was going to help things, so I took one for the team and decided to get a room down the road at the Old Excise House – a bed and breakfast run by golf pro Ron Goudie, who accommodate guests along with his wife Emma.

Up until the 1960s, all of the distilleries on the island had an excise officer – a government employee living nearby who would ensure that all proper duties were being paid by each producer. It was up to each distillery to provide lodging for these officials, so in 1906 Laphroaig built a house along what is now the road (A846) running between Ardbeg and Port Ellen. The house stands less than a hundred yards from the sea and is surrounded by picturesque views. 

I got up around 5 AM (happy to not be disturbing a roommate), answered some emails, did some stretching and then went for a run up the hill behind the house where the small loch that feeds Laphroaig its water is located. It was a beautiful moment – staring at the pond, with the dark, brooding sky above me and the fierce wind whipping through my hair. There were geese, plenty of sheep, and old stone walls along the way. I couldn't help but wish I had my camera with me, but not every moment in life needs to be preserved, does it? Some things are better left to memory. I eventually headed back down the hill and into Port Ellen where I trotted through the malting site and along the warehouses before making my way back home. 

After showering and getting dressed, I walked out to the dining room and found a beautiful array of breakfast foods awaiting me. Emma bakes homemade scones and bread, topped with her award-winning orange marmalade made with Laphroaig Quarter Cask. If you're considering a trip to Islay, this is definitely the place to stay if you want an authentic experience. Bowmore is more central to bars and restaurants, but there's something magical about staying on the southern coast. It's more mysterious.

I'm ready to hit the road in a bit. We're off to Kilchoman to see Anthony Willis.

-David Driscoll


Scotland – Day 2: Components

Alright, alright! I'll tell you what we drank at Ardbeg last night. Normally, I'm not the type to brag when I get to taste amazing whisky (mainly because I hate it when other people do it), but since fifty people emailed me after the last post (and I'm not going to answer fifty separate emails right now) I'll show you a close-up of the photo.

In my honest opinion, the best whisky in the group was the first: a 1999 single Bourbon cask. Even compared to the 1974, I thought the 15 year old was better. I could drink that whisky for the rest of my life and be happy. It's really a dynamic experience tasting single barrel Ardbeg samples because most of what Ardbeg releases are marriages of various ages from various barrel types. Getting the chance to isolate one of those components is really eye-opening – the fruitiness on the nose, the phenolic elements, and the hint of vanilla and butterscotch from the wood carrying through the finish. 

I now badly wish Ardbeg had a standard 15 year old expression.

-David Driscoll


Scotland – Day 2: Whirlwind Tour

Only a few years ago, the idea of travelling to Islay on behalf of K&L was just one of Kyle Kurani's many dreams. Earlier today he stood on the deck of the ferry, gazing towards Jura in the distance, brimming with the anticipation of what was looming before him. One moment he was on a boat powering through the Irish Sea towards Islay...

...the next he's standing in front of Caol Ila overlooking the Straight of Islay.

No more than twenty minutes after leaving Port Askaig, he was turning the barley at the Bowmore floor maltings.

No less than thirty minutes after leaving Bowmore, he was standing with the rest of us at Ardbeg watching Mickey Heads water down the grist. That's pretty good for an hour's work.

In the midst of all the hoopla and hot press, it's easy to forget that Ardbeg is a pretty tiny distillery when compared to most standards. They have only one wash still and one spirit still. That's the same amount of stills as Kilchoman, the only distillery on the island with a smaller output than them.

It's also easy to forget that the Uigeadail once cost more than $100 per bottle, yet now costs less than it ever has. True, they're not dumping any more ancient sherry casks into the marriage, but they're also charging you $50 less per bottle. That stands in stark contrast to many other companies charging you more for less. What's not easy to overlook is the incredible generosity of their staff and their employees. Ardbeg may be owned by one of the world's largest luxury brands, but they manage to generate the feel of a small, family-run operation. We had an epic tasting with Mickey, accompanied by our good friend Lester Lopez from LVMH. It was his first time on the island and he was absolutely stoked.

We laughed, we told stories, we drank. 

We really enjoyed that whisky.

-David Driscoll


Scotland – Day 2: The Road to Islay

We skipped Islay last year, mainly because there weren't any casks to be had at that time. It's a multi-day commitment, as well, so we figured that time was better spent searching down more whisky. This year, with Kyle in tow, Islay was an absolute must. It's like whisky Disneyland, a mecca for Scotch geeks, so there's no better place than the Queen of the Hebrides to get you pumped up about single malt. It's also quite a beautiful drive around Loch Lomand, through the Argyll forest, and over the lip of Loch Fyne before heading down the Kintyre Peninsula. You head through misty valleys…

…past mountain streams...

 …by seaside towns…

…and eventually end up at the Kennacraig ferry.

Then you pull away from the mainland and head out towards the Straight of Islay and Port Askaig.

-David Driscoll