Scotland 2013 - Day 4 - Downtime

Driving north along the A9 from Tain one can see the rugged coastline of the Northern Highlands as the North Sea collapses upon the rocky shore. There are a few distilleries further north of Glenmorangie. Old Pulteney sits right on the tip of the peninsula near the town of Wick, looking across at the Orkney Islands where the Highland Park and Scapa whiskies are distilled. Between the extreme north and the village of Tain is a small town called Brora.

Though it sits right upon the sea, there are rolling hills and vast fields with livestock just above the town limits. Upon one of those hills sits one very special distillery – one of the most beloved in all the world. Immediately next door are the remains of what was once its partner in crime.

With steam puffing out of its chimneys, the very-modern Clynelish distillery captures the essence of late-60s/early 70s factory architecture: tall glass windows, tan and brown colors, red brick accentuating its facade. Mr. Brady couldn't have designed it better!

The back is no more romantic. Large tanking equipment, a truck stop, and other industrial riff-raff make up most of the scene. While I truly love the whisky coming from the six large pot stills pumping away through the front windows, I can't say that the site of the building sets my heart aflutter. However, turning around from this view shows the entry ways towards another facility.

Follow the pipeline out of Clynelish and you'll spot the warehouses full of whisky barrels. Yet, beyond those buildings lies a pagoda roof and chimney. What's that all about, you ask?

Follow the road around the back of the distillery and you'll come to a gate.

You're not supposed to enter through that gate, but we're in the middle of freakin' nowhere. I don't think there's much private property enforcement in the town of Brora.

Through the gates one can see the neglected remains of the original Clynelish distillery, now more commonly known as Brora – the legendary site of what is now one of the most beloved and collectable whiskies in existance. The stills are still inside. The walls are still standing. Yet, nothing has been distilled at Brora since it was closed by DCL in 1983. Clynelish was renamed Brora after the Scotch Whisky laws determined that two distilleries couldn't maintain the same name (Clynelish I and II had been operating under the same banner once the new distillery was built). When the glut hit the industry at the beginining of the eighties, the decision was made to can the original in favor of the modern addition.

It was fun to visit one of my favorite distilleries and site of single malt royalty. There's not much one can do with whisky on a Sunday because not one of the distilleries take appointments on the weekend, so we didn't get a peek inside. Plus, we really needed to head south to reach Glasgow by the evening, so there wasn't much time to dilly-dally.

Further south, however, lied peril. Despite blankets of snow still paralyzing the south of Scotland, we rolled into Glasgow a few hours ago. Tomorrow we'll visit a few independent bottlers before checking to see if Arran is still in play. The entire island was still without power earlier this morning. We're just hoping the ferry is operational, otherwise we'll have to find something else to do with our Tuesday.

More on actual whisky tasting tomorrow!

-David Driscoll


Scotland 2013 - Day 3 - Glenmorangie Cask Masters

Before shoving off to the local pub for a few pints, we sat in the Glenmorangie house dining room to learn about the new Cask Master series. GlenMo is going to be auditioning three new whiskies for their next private edition release – three whiskies that the public will get to decide upon via online vote.

There are three cask-finished selections to choose from. We should be one of the American polling destinations if all goes as planned, meaning you can come to the store, taste for free, and then make your decision. The whiskies are Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Manzanilla sherry finished. Our choice was quite easy. Manzanilla all the way. But that's just us speaking. You'll have your chance to vote later this year, I believe.

-David Driscoll


Scotland 2013 - Day 3 - Glenmorangie Distillery

This afternoon was quite wonderful – both because we finally got to visit one of my favorite distilleries in the world and because it actually lived up to the expectation. Glenmorangie is one of the most polished single malt whiskies in existance. The facility is no different. It's picturesque, quaint, beautiful, and clean.

I don't really think of Glenmorangie as a coastal whisky but it sits right on the shore of the North Sea, separated only by a railroad track that once transfered the whisky down to the central heart of Scotland. The buildings are stone grey with red trim on the doors, but the main entrance way carries the classic orange and black on the brand.

We mustn't forget that Glenmorangie is quite a huge operation now that it's run by LVMH. They're right there beneath Glenfiddich and Glenlivet. You'd never know if from the outside, but the equipment on the inside is gigantic. Their mashtun carries 48,000 liters of grist and water. It's enormous!

The wash from the mashtun only creates enough to fill one of twelve gigantic washbacks. Fermentation time is fifty-two hours and they run pretty much 24/7, stopping only for maintainance, Christmas, and Boxing Day.

The still house is breathtaking. The twelve stills at Glenmorangie are amazingly tall and are referred to as "the giraffes." There were only six stills as of a few years ago, but the global demand for Glenmorangie whisky required the company to double capacity. Today six wash stills and six spirit stills crank out maximum elegance. Glenmorangie decided to actually add more equipment rather than resort to super-steroid yeasts that bring the wash up to 11 or 12% abv like other distilleries we've visited. Their wash still comes out at a reasonable 8% before distilling the low wine to 21%.

You can see the many warehouses from the window of the still room. However, LVMH has warehouses all over the area. On the way to the distillery from the house we passed three or four large capacity storage units that were all full of whisky. They're spread out from Tain clear up to Brora.

Climbing up the small hill in back of the distillery reveals the railroad (still in use) and the shores of the sea.

The water for Glenmorangie comes from the nearby Tarlogie Spring. The water is quite hard and full of minerals, but clean and refreshing at the same time. It's wonderfully pure.

That's it for now. I was so happy to find that Glenmorangie is actually a world-class operation while remaining romantic and charming. It put my mind at ease.

David, Mark Harvey, and I just went for a cold run along the beach. Now we're showered off and heading down to the pub. Catch you all later.

-David Driscoll


Scotland 2013 - Day 3 - Glenmorangie House

Along the coast of the North Sea lies the Glenmorangie house – a country estate purchased by the company in 1985. No one outside of Glenmorangie was allowed in the house however until 1998 when it was opened to the public. A flurry of guests flocked to the beautiful grounds and it became a major tourist attraction. The house is built on the site of an old farming castle and abbey. The castle walls to the left have been here since 1376.

A road from the house leads down to the beach where a Pictish stone still stands. The Picts lived in this part of Scotland from the 5th century until the 8th century when they completely disappeared. They were known as the painted people and were a matriarchal society – making time to create beautiful jewelry and bracelets. They were also quite fierce.

The Picts where known as the painted people because they wore mostly paint instead of heavy clothing. I'm not sure how the Picts lived here without enormous furs because we about froze ourselves solid on the walk down to the shore.

The dark, cold waters of the North Sea. Can you imagine Viking invaders landing here?

There's not much else around the area. We're quite isolated here.

Despite the wind and cold, we pressed on with long-standing country tradition, much like we've all enjoyed on Downton Abbey. Falconry! We sent these birds of prey in search of small game. I've got a great photo of an owl eating a mouse, but that's for a later date. We're off to the distillery after lunch.

-David Driscoll


Scotland 2013 - Day 2 - A Race Against Time

David and I had planned to wake at seven in the morning to be on the road by 8:30. We wanted to catch breakfast and hit Glenfarclas for a 10 AM appointment with George Grant. What we didn't know, however, was that a huge blizzard was scheduled to hit Pitlochry in just a few hours and that if we didn't leave right now and make it over the Cairngorm mountains immediately, we might be stuck. YIKES! We downed our coffee, paid our bill, scraped the ice off the windshield, and hit the road north on the A9. The weather turned quite dicey at Dalwhinnie and the snow drift began to fly all over the road. I was a bit nervous. We made it over the hill alive, but an hour after we arrived at Glenfarclas it seemed a giant truck jacknifed right where we had been and blocked the highway in both directions. Had we left any later we wouldn't have made it.

Glenfarclas was quite a different sight this time around. The mountain of Benrinnes was completely covered in white with what looked like quite a storm brewing at the peak. The powder was being whipped off the hill at around forty miles an hour in between the distillery buildings. We braved our way into the office to grab our samples.

We had gone over a list with George Grant about what we were looking for and, since we had packed our day full of appointments, he knew we couldn't stay so he prepared a to-go container for us. We piled them into a box and made our way back out towards the car.



Walking through the warehouses I don't think we could have tolerated more than twenty minutes or so had we planned to taste directly from the casks. It was absolutely frigid.

Aberlour is on the way out from Glenfarclas, just northwest as you head towards Elgin. We took a quick detour to check out the cute little buildings and property. I got a copy of the new Malt Whisky Yearbook at the gift shop, so the time was well spent.

Next on the list was Benriach, a distillery that we both love, but had never visited. We usually stay at Glendronach and taste the Benriach samples there, but this time we reversed the appointment. Awaiting us at the distillery were samples of both whiskies with all types of variation in age and cask type. We found what we think are two top quality Oloroso butts of Glendronach – a 1993 and a 1995 that we'll have to decide between. The Benriach samples were quite spectacular. Their whisky is absolutely terrific in quality and there's such a variety! You might taste a peated Bourbon cask, then move on to an unpeated sherry butt, before tasting a rum-finished ex-hoggy. I about died when tasting an 18 year old Bourbon cask from their number two peated formula. Spectacular.

After tasting through the samples we met with Ewan George, the warehouse manager for Benriach, and took a tour of the facility. There's an amazing fact that I didn't know about Benriach: it opened in 1898 and then immediately closed two years after during the Pattison crash. A brand new distillery sat dormant for sixty-five years until 1965 when it was reopened by Glenlivet distillers. Ewan told us the only reason it likely wasn't demolished is because nearby neighbor Longmorn used the floormaltings at the facility. Had Benriach not had the extra space for the barley malting, it likely would have been bulldozed into oblivion. Yet here it sits more than 100 years later, now owned by the Benriach group that also owns Glendronach. By the way, the photo above is not a closeup of Jupiter, it's the wash being fermented at the distillery. 

While my in-store customers know how fond I am of Kilchoman's new make whisky (I think they could bottle it on its own and I normally hate white whisky), I couldn't believe how delicious the wash was at Benriach. Very beery, but quite sweet on the finish. When we tasted the new make spirit afterward I was quite impressed with how faithfully it represented the beer. They're putting something in that wort that makes it quite tasty.

Benriach has four stills – two fat low wine stills and two spirits stills. It's a cute little facility they've got going.

The barrel room still has whisky dating back to 1966, the year after it reopened, but Benriach is being quite careful about its cask sales today. They realize they can't keep up with the growing demand for their booze and are holding some of it back for that reason.

Longmorn is just a stone's throw away in the distance. Another of our favorite Speyside distilleries.

After leaving Benriach, we continued on to Elgin and the home of Gordon & MacPhail – the independent giant with whom we once did much business. Upon arrival the folks at G&M had a very familiar story to tell us: they don't have enough booze to offer us much. Wow! Maybe this isn't a giant plot by retailers, distributors, and corporations to screw everyone over!

We met with Derek at the head offices to sit down and taste what barrels were available, as well as shoot the breeze a bit. Derek had a ton of great information. I had never really thought about the fact that the 1983 closures have so much to do with the lack of older casks on the market. If they were making less whisky thrity years ago, it makes sense that there wouldn't be much 30 year old whisky on the market. Duh! No wonder no one has anything old to sell us. One of the things that makes Gordon & MacPhail such a unique operation is the fact that they still have valid, grandfathered-in filling contracts with many of Diageo's main distilleries (i.e. Mortlach and Caol Ila). This means they don't feel as much pressure to purchase casks on the currently arid market, but rather can sit back and wait for their own stocks to age. It also means that they're not settling for whisky that was originally slated for a blend, but ended up in some forgotten warehouse and really isn't all that good as a solo expression (sure, it says 18 year old Macallan, but it's in a freakin' fifth-fill hogshead and tastes like nothing!). That's what many of today's releases are – leftovers. G&M also ages on site at their own warehouse where they get very little evaporation, which leads to high proofs and higher volume. When you get a selection from G&M it's usually quite good and their dedication to intended single barrel expressions has a lot to do with that. We tasted a few possibilities: a young Caol Ila, a fun Ledaig, and a tasty Strathisla. We'll have to see the pricing before we know how good they are, however.

We're now at the Glenmorangie house, away from the snow, but getting absolutely pummeled by 50 mph winds. I'll show some photos of the site tomorrow. That's it for now!

-David Driscoll