New Faces

It's been a while since I've had the time to tell you about some of our newer, not-liable-to-sell-out-in-seconds, spirits additions here on the blog. Everything has been whiskey, whisky, whiskey to the extreme. Speaking of whisky, you heard correctly: Remy is indeed taking over the importation of Bruichladdich now to the United States. WineBow, their old importer, informed us this week that the Rocks will be discontinued (so load up now if that's your drink), and the Organic and Octomore selections will be travel retail/duty-free from now on. That leaves only the Laddie 10 and Port Charlotte 10, which I've also heard might take a price bump. We've got another drop of Octomore 6.2 coming, which if I understand it correctly will be the last Octomore for the U.S. Maybe I'm understanding that wrong, but that's how I interpreted the news.

Back to other non-whisky items. Actually--hold that thought--one more whisky arrival to tell you about: the new 2013 release of Lagavulin Distiller's Edition is here with brand new labeling. You can get one of those by clicking the link below. It's always a very popular whisky with the extra maturation bringing more richness.

Lagavulin Distiller's Edition Single Malt Whisky $109.99 -- (ignore the old photo of last year's bottle)

Ed Hamilton, who helped us secure the barrel of St. Lucia for our Faultline rum, now has his own series of rums from different Carribean islands. This Jamaican Black Pot Still edition is fabulous for mixing and comes in at a rock-bottom price of $24.99. Tough to beat that for your Dark & Stormy needs. Now just grab some ginger beer and get going.

Jake Lustig, the man behind ArteNOM tequila and the fabulous K&L Fuenteseca selection, has finally brought me the Pura Sangre stuff -- Enrique Fonseca's own label of all-estate tequila. Fonseca is the distiller for the top-selling tequila we sell--the ArteNOM anejo 1146--and these new bottles make welcome additions to the category. These are 100% natural anejos. I know you might be thinking, "But most of my tequilas are 100% agave," however, I can assure you that there is nothing natural in tequila that makes it creamy and taste like vanilla. But we'll tackle that subject later on an upcoming blog post. Fonseca's anejos are unbeatable. They're round and rich with wood spices and hints of clove, but they never taste manipulated. I think 1942 drinkers could get behind these no problem.

Pura Sangre 2 Year Old Anejo Tequila $35.99 - Very, very, very reasonably priced. Too low, perhaps.

Pura Sangre 5 Year Old Anejo Tequila $109.99 - Expensive, but one taste is enough to convince you. Only thing we have that competes with this is the Fuenteseca. No one can touch Enrique Fonseca's anejo tequilas. No one.

Jake also brought me these two inexpensive mezcales, which I think will make you all very happy. Mina is made at Jake's 300 year old distillery in Santa Catarina Minas. They use 100% Espadin agave that is grown at 4800 feet. The blanco is super clean and not heavy on the smoke. The reposado is aged at 100 proof in Pedro Domecq brandy casks. These are the mezcal versions of Jake's ArteNOM expressions: reasonably-priced, honest, and unmanipulated spirits that are transparent in their origins and of high-quality.

Mina Real Blanco Mezcal $26.99

Mina Real Reposado Mezcal $29.99

It's not often I'm on the lookout for a new cachaca, but my good friend Val brought me this absolutely delicious, strikingly-labeled liter bottle of pure bargain-priced booze. Velho Barreiro Cachaca is only $15.99 and is briefly aged in Brazilian wood (I think oak?). It's full of real rum character and should make killer drinks for those looking for a new mixer. And the God!

And our last new face of the day is yet another inexpensive, but delicious new South American mixer: the Pisco Ocucaje Quebranta Pisco for $22.99. They have another pisco we're getting from a grape varietal called Italia, but I've never heard of that grape. Nevertheless, their brand rep from Peru said it was a common, aromatic varietal native to the region. Whatever it is, it makes for a spectacular brandy. Floral, fruity, and pure. The Quebranta we have right now is also quite clean and fresh. Good stuff. Yum!

More new faces coming soon.

-David Driscoll


Gin Fever: Part V – Gin as Medicine

If botanicals and herbs can be used for medicinal purposes, what better way to preserve that medicine for year-round usage than by steeping those botanicals and herbs in pure alcohol? Ever wonder why Mary Poppins was so adamant that "a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down"? Because after you steep medicinal herbs into grain neutral spirit, bottling that healing power for usage long after the plants themselves would have expired, there's nothing like a little sweetness to make that highly-herbaceous formula go down smoothly. See Chartreuse, Zwack Unicum, and many other long-standing herbal liqueurs as examples of popular spirits whose roots are steeped (no pun intended) in medicinal origin.

Gin is like an herbal liqueur without the sugar–just the herbs and the booze. So where does it come from? There's no debate that the origins of gin, or jenever, begin in Holland, but who exactly came up with the idea? The above picture shows Dutch chemist and alchemist Franciscus Sylvius, often credited with discovering the medical merit of juniper-infused spirit, but there seems to be serious disagreement about whether this is or isn't the case. Whether or not Sylvius actually invented jenever, and whether he actually invented it as a type of medicine, is irrelevant at this point. Gin's history of medical usage is irrefutable–it simply does the trick in some instances.

Wikipedia's gin entry notes that: "By the mid 17th century, numerous small Dutch and Flemish distillers (some 400 in Amsterdam alone by 1663) had popularized the re-distillation of malt spirit or malt with juniper, anise, caraway, and coriander, which were sold in pharmacies and used to treat such medical problems as kidney ailments, lumbago, stomach ailments, gallstones, and gout." Regardless of whether it actually did work, it was prescribed as medicine it its early manifestation. Yet, we know that gin did function in one very serious situation. The combination of gin with quinine is one of the most famous examples of alcohol as medicine in the fight against malaria.

Returning to our friend Iain Gately and his fantastic book Drink, let's look at what happened when the British Empire expanded into India:

The Indian market also influenced the way in which Britons consumed their spirits. India was administed from Calcutta, where malaria, typhoid, hepatitus, and various other killers were endemic. The local water had a reputation for unwholesomeness worse than that of raw sewage. It was a time-honored maxim of the expatriate community that alcoholic beverages were the only safe drinks, and that they were consumed with vigor. Every evening, they would participate in the ritual of the 'chotaped,' during which they protected themselves against malaria with a dose of quinine, whose bitter, astringent flavors were made more palatable by mixing it with gin.

Ever wonder who Schweppes was named after?

The therapeutic part of the combination was improved by Jacob Schweppe, a manufacturer of aerated waters, which launched an Indian quinine Tonic in 1870 and exported it to its place of inspiration. It was immediately popular as the perfect partner for gin and a taste for this medicinal mixture was carried back to the UK by retiring empire builders, where the gin and tonic was added to the list of 'traditional' British drinks.

Quinine protected against mosquitoes, and nothing tasted better with quinine than gin. In this case, a shot of gin helped the medicine go down. There are many examples throughout history (including American Prohibition) where alcohol, or the addition of herbs to alcohol, has been seen as having medical efficacy. If you want living proof of gin's effectiveness as a health-related supplement to daily living, I give you no better example that my own grandmother.

This is Helen Felber. She is my mother's mother. She is 93 years old, still drinks a gin cocktail every day, and is still going strong today in Sandpoint, Idaho. She's still sharp as a tack, physically fit, and prolific in her activity. What's her secret? Gin, or at least that's what she claims. My grandmother was a bartender for many years and gin martinis were her specialty. I sat down for an interview with her yesterday to gain her insight into gin and its many medical qualities.

David: Hi Omi, I was wondering if you could tell me what your gin consumption is like now that you're in a retirement center with round-the-clock help.

Helen: Here we only have a libation maybe two or three times a year. Wine, you know? We had a party tonight to celebrate the new facility manager. It's not really something we do often. Maybe just a small glass here and there.

David: So how often are you drinking gin yourself?

Helen: Between you and me?

David: Yes.

Helen: Every day.

David: Oh good.

Helen: I believe gin is the elixir of life. Just recently I saw an old Charles Dickens movie and one of the things I read about these situations is that women in those days–you know how people were poverty stricken–and you had these bars in basements, and the women all drank gin. I'll stand corrected, but I think it was invented in Holland, and it told in these stories that a lot of these women lived practically on gin. I always remembered that. These prostitutes and such were in the bars, hanging around, and gin could be had for like five cents a glass–this was years ago, and I've never been a drinker myself–VO was my drink at the time–but I had one gin martini almost every day.

David: So if (Seagrams) VO was your drink why did you switch over to gin?

Helen: Well...I don't know. I guess it was because I had a great reputation behind the bar as being a great gin martini mixer and I felt I had to live up to that. I like gin better than I do anything else nowadays, but I never have more than one drink.

David: So you would make gin martinis, but you weren't necessarily drinking them?

Helen: No, I had a reputation for being a great martini mixer, but not a drinker of martinis. Still, I always keep a bottle of gin around. We get orange juice here in the home everyday, so I save my orange juice and then dump in some gin and have a gin and juice.

David: (laughs quietly)

Helen: I'm serious, however, when I say you shouldn't drink to excess. I think gin is healthy for you if you don't drink too much of it.

David: Well, it's supposed to be full of medicine.

Helen: Well, I'm 93 years old and I had the nurse here just the other day for my ear infection and he said, "For someone who's 93 years old I would never dream that you're that old." Because I'm still healthy and strong, you know? Maybe it's just my imagination, but that's what I think. You've been to my old home. For more than ten years I would go out on to my deck every evening and have my martini. I never had more than one, however. I never wanted to be drunk.

David: So when did you start in the bar business?

Helen: I came into Sandpoint around 1960 after coming from Spokane. My girlfriend owned a bar up here, but due to liquor laws I had to establish residency for one year in order to be a bar owner, so I took a job with Northern Lights–the electric company here. I had been coming up just to visit. In any case, I ended up buying into her bar–the 219 here in Sandpoint.

David: How long did you operate the 219 before selling out to new ownership?

Helen: I would say six or seven years.

David: Were you the bartender most of the time?

Helen: We had three shifts. There were three owners so we split that time up.

David: So who taught you how to make a martini?

Helen: I just had a knack for it. I was never a drinker. I never have been a drinker. But I do know how to make martinis and I do make a martini everyday.

David: So if people came to the 219 did they come just for you and to have your specially-made martinis?

Helen: Yes, they would come in on my shift to have a martini.

David: And if you weren't there?

Helen: Well, it wasn't a big deal, Barney and Augie made good martinis too. But most people thought I made a damn good martini.

David: What was the secret?

Helen: It's kind of crazy, but there is a knack to making a martini. You can't just pour one, you know. It's kind of like a painting. It's an art, in a way. The main thing was to have a good gin–not too strong. One of the gins we used for many years was Booth. I still think Booth is a damn good gin today. Most people didn't want a strong gin. They said, "Pour me that gin you usually pour." Do you know it?

David: Yes, it's still around.

Helen: I still think it's a damn good gin. With just a bit of vermouth. I just had the knack, however. A lot of people, no matter how hard they try, they can't pour a good martini and some people just have the knack. There's a secret something.

David: Did you shake or stir?

Helen: Definitely shaken not stirred. I always shook my martinis. I always had chilled glasses, too. There's nothing in my mind that can compete with a good gin martini.

David: How do you feel about olives? With olives?

Helen: Oh yeah. With olives. No matter where I went there would be big parties and people would ask me, "Helen, are you going to mix some martinis?" and I would say, "Yes, if you want me to." In fact, I still make a martini every day. But I'm a bit careless now. I still use Booth's gin, a bit of vermouth, and an olive (laughs). And I'm 93, and most people that are 93 are in wheelchairs.

David: Most people don't live to be 93. They're already dead!

Helen: Right! And I don't have arthritis or health issues the way other people do. I just can't see. I can't operate the stove or the thermostat, but I'm good otherwise. If there's one thing I can say about gin it's that people want a nice, easy-going gin that's not too harsh.

David: What is it about gin that people like, in your opinion?

Helen: For one thing–well, you know that old saying: you drink three you're under the table and four you're under the host. A lot of people are only going to have one drink before dinner, and if so, a martini is a nice drink to have.

David: But why not something else? Why not a shot of whiskey?

Helen: Well, because when you drink a martini you're really getting two shots. And to this day people still see it as something special. As something that's good for you, ultimately.

-David Driscoll


Gin Fever: Part IV - Heritage

Since we've tackled the history of gin in England, why not learn more about two of its oldest and most iconic brands? Often times people assume that smaller distilleries are making higher-quality, more-artisinal, "hand-crafted" gins than the big boys, but as I explained in the previous posts: gin is just redistilled grain neutral spirit with botanicals. There's nothing particularly romantic about taking bulk, non-hand-crafted, non-small batch, non-artisinal, agricultural GNS and simply adding flavor to it. Yet people think that Plymouth and Beefeater are industrial giants? To shed some more light on this issue, I tracked down Beefeater/Plymouth brand ambassador Trevor Easter (who used to manage Heaven's Dog here in San Francisco) to discuss some of the specifics of each brand:

David D: What is your role with Pernod-Ricard?

Trevor: I am the West Coast brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater. I've got from Seattle to San Diego and a bit of Texas as well.

David D: So when you talk to people about gin, how do you distinguish Beefeater and Plymouth from other brands on the market?

Trevor: One of the things that we do uniquely -- which is easy when you have two historic gins -- is to educate people on the history of gin in general, not just ours, and hope that they find their own way. Usually consumers like the more aromatic, carter-head distilled gins like Bombay Sapphire and Hendrick's, things that are very soft and delicate. The way that we distinguish ourself is with our heritage, especially with Plymouth, and we have very citrus-forward gins that work very well in cocktails, which is kind of the intention of gin in general.

David D: When you talk about the history of both brands where do you usually start?

Trevor: When I talk about gin as a category I always start with Plymouth because it's the oldest brand that has been continually made, since 1793. The brand is based out of Plymouth, England and is the official gin of the Royal Navy, so when you talk about Plymouth it's as a rather iconic gin. There are the roots buried in the history of the gin and tonic cocktail, which helped save the military from malaria, and then there are its roots in the Gimlet cocktail, which the navy captains would drink with the sailors. We start there along with the fact that it's made in an old monastery that was also a prison at one point, so it's never moved -- it's been in the same distillery since the beginning, it has never closed, and it's made from one still -- about three guys make it -- which tends to blow people's minds because they think it's some industrial product. It's not, however, it's actually quite a small production.

David D: What are the key botanicals for Plymouth? Plymouth is its own geographically-recognized gin, so what exactly makes Plymouth so special?

Trevor: Water is such a big element when it comes to making gin -- any spirit for that matter -- and when we talk about the water for Plymouth it's part of what makes it unique. Plymouth sources its water from a nearby national park called the Dartmoor and what the geography of that landscape plays a big role. It looks a lot like Scotland with the peat moss on granite, and the water there has this lack of minerality, this really nice smooth and oily texture. I was taking a hike up through Dartmoor once and had a bit of the water. It's quite incredible the way it comes out of this natural spring -- it's really delicious -- and I think that's one of the things that gives the gin its unique flavor. Also, if you go back to a lot of old school cocktail books, like the Savoy, and from anyone who did anything significant with cocktails in the late 1800s, you'll see a good amount of drinks specifically call for Plymouth. I think at that time they were the only ones doing a proper, dry English gin that mixed well.

The key botanicals for Plymouth are obviously the juniper, which is really heavy, and a lot of really great citrus -- lemon. Coriander is also a big one, along with cardamom, which is a nice addition and somewhat unique.

David D: Moving over to Beefeater, what do you usually tell people about the brand and the role of London gin?

Trevor: Beefeater is interesting because it's one of the last London dry gins that is actually still made in London. Many of them have moved to Scotland for production reasons. For Beefeater, if you look at the time period the distillery itself opened in 1820, but the first batch of Beefeater came off the still in 1860 after James Burrough purchased the facility. When you look at that time, London was really the center of great gin. All of the brands at the time were named after the last names of families -- the Tanquerays, the Gordons, the Brokers. Those are the last names of the distillers. Beefeater decided to do something different and be a bit iconic, so they named their gin after the Beefeaters who guard the Tower of London. They wanted to embrace what London was: a progressive, artistic, and modern city. When you look at them now it's a big part of why they're still there -- they can't stomach the idea of leaving because that's their heritage.

Beefeater is still made the same way today, they've never changed the recipe, which is really cool. Desmond Payne, our master distiller, has been making gin for about fifty years. He's the longest running gin distiller alive today.

David D: What type of still are they using at Beefeater?

Trevor: We use five copper pot stills with four guys who actually make it -- including Desmond, which is interesting because we're talking about the number one selling premium gin in the world. It's quite amazing that they make it all with four guys. What's also really interesting is that -- if you do this experiment and you add a bit of water to gin -- lay out a couple of great brands like Tanqueray and Bombay and add a bit of water to them, then go back to them about five minutes later you'll notice that they change. But when you get to the Beefeater it still tastes exactly the same. It's for that reason that I think most bartenders, if forced to choose one gin to do everything, would go with Beefeater because it cuts through the citrus and the aromatics of most drinks, while keeping its flavor.

A lot of that has to do with something we do that's unique to Beefeater. On Monday morning at the distillery all of the botanicals go into the still, but we don't turn it on until twenty-four hours later. So there's a twenty-four hour steeping period that is proprietarily ours, and it's something they've been doing since 1860. Not only do we have the most experienced distiller in the world, but also a recipe that's been working for one hundred and fifty years. That's pretty amazing, right?

David: It is amazing. So when people ask you, "What is London dry gin as opposed to just regular gin?" what's your answer for that question?

Trevor: If you want to get down to technical laws, our laws here in the states are not the same as they are in the UK. The rule over there states that everything that is put into London dry gin must come from distillation. The only thing that can be added after the fact is water. So the product comes off the still and the only thing you can add at that point is the water, but the gin doesn't actually have to come from London. Tanqueray is a good example. It comes from Scotland, but it's considered a London dry gin. And then Tanqueray 10 is just a distilled gin, rather than a London gin, because they add flavor after the distillation.

David: So London dry gin is just a style of gin, rather than a place of origin?

Trevor: Right, it's kind of like Bourbon in that regard. What's also interesting is that, with all of the new gin makers now, just an incredible amount, there are a lot of people making great gin -- i.e. St. George and Aviation. But one thing that differentiates Beefeater is the control Desmond has over that steeping period because that's where you can really blow it. A lot of people can simply put botanicals in a still and get a great product on the other end, but the long extended finish on Beefeater really comes down to that steeping period, which doesn't seem like a process many other people can replicate successfully.

For me, my biggest obstacle is the idea of Beefeater as, you know, "grandma's gin." It's "old," or it's a "well gin." But people don't realize that we win just about every contrast we enter into. The San Francisco Spirits Competition, the Oscars of the spirits world, and we win "Best Gin in the World." People are like, "What the hell? Beefeater?" But when you close your eyes and taste a whole bunch of gins side-by-side you realize that this is an iconic tasting gin and is really the foundation of what other gins are built off of. It's a bit like the cool kid on the block, the kid that other kids aspire to be.

When reaching out to new drinkers, however, we always want to try and get people to start with Plymouth because it's such a beautifully aromatic gin and it's one of the oldest. We actually changed the bottle to get that point across, the heritage, you know? We're still battling daily, however, with accounts that say, "Well, we really only carry small batch, hand-crafted gin." And I'm thinking, "There's nothing more small batch and hand-crafted than a gin made by four guys on a pot still!"

David D: We're going to see a backlash against that, though. The terms "hand-crafted" and "small batch" have been co-opted completely by some of the worse possible brands. I think you'll eventually see people rebel against that because it doesn't mean anything now. I taste new gins all the time that that absolutely terrible, but label themselves as "artisan" or "craft" because they're small.

Trevor: We're really fighting the hard fight. With a brand like Plymouth I just want people to start there because, both historically and stylistically, that's really where you should start. Start with the most classic of styles before moving on to the more modern gins, the gins without juniper like Hendrick's, but at least understand what gin is supposed to taste like before branching out.

David D: I agree with you 100%. You can't understand any subject well if you don't know the history, the heritage, and the foundation that it's build upon.

-David Driscoll


Gin Fever: Part III - Juniper Berries

So gin is really just flavored vodka. But flavored with what? Anything? No, not anything -- primarily with juniper berries. What are juniper berries? They're the little, dark-colored seed cones (technically not a berry) that, according to Wikipedia, have "unusually fleshy and merged scales, which give it a berry-like appearance." Juniper berries grow on juniper trees, which consist of over fifty different species grown all over the world. The trees can vary in size and height, from low-growing to tall with long-spreading branches. Juniper berries have been used as a pungent spice since the time of the Romans, who used the seed as a cheap domestic substitute for pepper when unavailable from India. It therefore makes sense that the Dutch, credited with inventing genever, used it along with other medicinal spices, to flavor their distilled malt wine with a peppery accent. 

Part of what makes gin such a fun spirit for producers to make is the role that foraging plays in the overall flavor of the spirit. With gin production, it's not so much the act of distilling the flavor out of something as it is distilling the flavor into something. Working with local farmers, growers, and suppliers to source these flavors can add excitement to the experience. Dave Smith mentioned yesterday that working with herbs and botanicals grown in the Bay Area was part of the fun when making the Terroir gin. In the same vein, regional gins like Bruichladdich Botanist express the terroir of Islay with locally sourced juniper. However, it appears Scotland is in a bit of trouble when it comes to juniper at the moment.

Read the story from this past summer about how a local fungus is endangering the juniper crop in the UK and putting gin production into jeopardy. And you thought whiskey producers were the only ones who had to worry about a shortage!

-David Driscoll


Gin Fever: Part II

William Hogarth's 1751 depiction of London's "Gin Lane"

By the 1720s, the streets of London were looking like the Tenderloin on Turk between Gough and Laguna. Gately writes:

Statistics suggested that every man, woman, and child in London knocked back more than a pint of gin per head per week. This alarmingly high level of consumption generated shocking levels of drunkenness in the capital. The problem was aggravated by the squalid living conditions in the slums. Tenement houses were packed from their cellars to their rafters. People dossed down ten to a room, and the only recreation or relief they could afford was drinking gin.

It prevailed into the 1730s. The press had a field day with the drama. Stories of intoxication were abound in the daily news, working like modern day paparazzi presses. The story of gin as a cultural destroyer was too good to pass up. Gin was causing mothers to murder their infants. Infanticide rates were rising. Gin might cause one to die in their sleep. Gin drinkers were seen as bad for capitalism--"they ate less, and they pawned their clothes instead of buying new ones." Anything to garner support for the temperance movement. Much like modern street drugs, gin had acquired a variety of new names like "kill-me-quick," or, my favorite, "strip-me-naked." A new gin act was passed in 1736 with harsher penalties, but it still did little to stem the tide. The next decade was a mess, full of gin-drinking anger, more reforms, rewards for snitches, snitches gettin' their stitches (modern-day street slang for beating down a rat), and more excessive drinking.

Gately writes that:

By 1750, London had been in the thrall of (gin) for a quarter of a century. (It) had been legislated against five times, declared the enemy of religion and health, yet persisted nonetheless. Gin had been a constant in an age of change. However, London in 1750 was no longer the rowdy place it had been at the turn of the century. The threat of rebellion has been countered and suppressed, wars had been won in Europe and elsewhere. The best and cruelest work of the golden age of English satire had been written. In 1751, approximately 7 million gallons of gin were taxed, the following year less than 4.5 million. The fall reflected declining demand and, best of all, the common people responded positively to new legislation, having seemed to have lost the desire to debase themselves.

While gin spurred several decades worth of debauchery in London, like all trends, it eventually calmed down and became less extreme of an intoxicant. Gin would never lose its status in popular drinking culture, however. It played a key role in the cocktails of the Belle Epoche, and the Gatsby-era libations we celebrate now as pre-Prohibition. It carried on into the tropical novels of Hemingway, and the colonial stories of Graham Greene in the Caribbean. It may have taken a back seat in the 1980s, but Snoop Dogg brought it right back with his 1993 gangta-rap anthem "Gin and Juice" ("Now that I got me some Seagram's gin, everybody got their cup, but they ain't chipped in). Along with Bourbon, it's now the biggest mainstay of today's craft cocktail revival.

St. George's Dave Smith working on our Faultline gin

We know of gin's importance to the history of alcohol and our drinking culture, but how is it actually made? To answer this question in detail I decided to call my good friend Dave Smith, distiller for St. George in nearby Alameda, to make sure I had all my facts straight.

David D: I was hoping you could just walk me through how a batch of St. George Terroir gin was made so we could help people reading the blog understand the process. You start with the grain neutral spirit, the GNS, right?

Dave S: Sure, uh....without giving away too many state secrets....the concept of the Terroir gin, and with any project that has multiple components--gin is an example--some producers want to distill all of the ingredients separately and then combine them, which sort of allows you the ultimate level of control. You have the ability to fine tune the flavors and find the ingredients' weight in that blend. We also believe in the integration of these components and their potential for being distilled together. So some of the ingredients for the Terroir gin will actually be distilled together in a 400 gallon pot still with GNS, to which we actually have a steam basket attached through which those vapors travel though. That gives us the option of actually boiling certain ingredients themselves or to steam certain ingredients that will benefit from that process.

David D: Do certain ingredients work better when boiled rather than steamed?

Dave S: Yes, a good example is bay laurel. Bay laurel is going to break down a lot more thoroughly when boiled, it's going to give off a some different flavor compounds aromatically. At the end of the day it's a leaf. It's going to fall apart. If you think about spinach, just as a point of reference--fresh spinach, steamed spinach, and boiled spinach are three uniquely different things. Citrus peels also benefit from boiling as heat helps to open up the pores, it can withstand that boiling, and we can do a better job of capturing the essence of that citrus peel. Bay laurel, not so much. The laurel goes into the steam basket with the juniper berries, so that we can get the aromatic, blueberry components, rather than the resiny, seedy aspects of the berry.

David D: So you're saying that some ingredients in the Terroir are put into the steam basket, while others are boiled?

Dave S: Yes, that's right.

David D: Are you also distilling them in different batches, then marrying them together?

Dave S: Actually, on those ingredients we'll distill them together in the same process because we believe strongly in the value of marrying those components together in the pot still. The still will help break down and capture the most balanced version of these botanical elements. You want to be mindful of how you manage each component, but the ingredients of the Terroir work together. The Douglas fir component, however, isn't something that we can forage for year-round, unlike bay laurel which we can get from Lance's yard. In that case, we have to do that as a separate component. But that helps us to isolate that flavor and control it as we blend it in. Coastal sage is another ingredient we can only get maybe once or twice a year.

David D: What about the coriander?

Dave S: The wok-roasted coriander is another big process. Every 400 gallon batch in the pot still is a an hour and half or two hours of distilling wok-roasted coriander seeds. It brings out almost a citrusy, grapefruit quality of the seeds. You can, however, run into certain botanical ingredients that are so intense that controlling them on a large scale batch, while I want to make sure they're well integrated, the choice is also to actually focus on re-integrating them--to have them out of the main batch and to use them almost like garnish on a plate. We do a separate distillation of citra-hops for Botanivore, and for Douglas fir for the Terroir.

David D: As someone who distills whiskey, fruit brandies, vodka, pretty much everything, where does gin fall in the hierarchy of spirits for you?

Dave S: A lot of people talk about gin, saying things like, "I don't like gin, but I like flavored vodka,"--I've got news for you: gin is flavored vodka.

David D: That's what I said!!

Dave S: That being said, what I would liken gin to actually is absinthe. You know about our time with absinthe and how long we worked with it. The real interesting challenge with absinthe and gin is not only to act as a supply chain manager with your ingredients, finding the best possible products and understanding how to work with them, how to utilize them and work safely with them, but also how to actually balance those ingredients. And if you're choosing not to balance them, then understanding how to do that specifically as a stylistic choice in response to other products on the market--you're looking to stand out.

For us, the dry rye gin is rye whiskey-based with coriander, caraway, black pepper--these are elements that are really focused and dialed in to make something that's a play on a London dry style, but also very malty creating a spirit that's very unique. When you first smell it the rye shows immediately. The black pepper shows later, but there are very few ingredients involved. The Botanivore on the other hand has nineteen specific ingredients, yet comes across as softer and more balanced. The challenge in making gin, and with absinthe, is to make choices and to understand your ingredients as a painter would understand his paints. You have to understand how to layer your colors to make a balanced picture. Or, if making an unbalanced picture, to understand why you're doing so.

David: Wouldn't that be an argument for viewing gin as one of the tougher spirits to produce, rather than seeing it simply as "flavored vodka"?

Dave S: I can see where you're going with that and I think there's a strong argument there, but I hate to say that distilling gin is harder or easier. Sometimes we get caught in that idea that something is better or worse. I don't think there's anything better about a four piece quartet versus a twenty piece orchestra, or even a soloist--a unique beautiful voice. None of these things are better, greater, or harder than another, but their processes are very unique and the challenges that they present are all very different.

-David Driscoll