Day 7: Tons of Calvados

This will be short and sweet because I am currently sitting in the office of the Camut brothers, borrowing their computer for a quick update.  No wifi here, so I will not be able to update with photos until late tomorrow.  We have a ton of stuff to show you about Calvados.  This is the real authentic part of French distillation.  Farms, cows, apples, and booze.  Oh....and the cheese.  The cheese stands alone, just like the old song says.  Photos, info, and good times coming tomorrow in a full report. 

-David Driscoll


France Day 6: Free Time in Normandie

K&L gives its buyers a certain amount of paid time to travel the world in search of great new products.  Unfortunately, we've already used up our allotted time. We of course have some paid vacation days we can use, so David and I decided it was worth cashing in two days to traverse through Normandie before flying home.  The five hour drive north was long, but worth seeing as we stopped off in the Loire Valley's Nantes for some Musadet and seafood.  Before sunset, however, we wanted to see France's second most visited attraction after the Eifel Tower.  Off on its own island, just off the shore of the Atlantic, stands Mont Saint Michel, the historical church and walled town that has existed since the 6th century.  Until recently, the island was only accessible at low tide, and was again isolated when the water came back in.  We stopped off for a brief tour before heading into Domfront to drop off our bags.

In the Domfrontais of Normandie sits the Lemorton family farm, a small outpost of cows, chickens, and, or course, a few pear and apple orchards.  Lemorton Calvados has been one of our top quality apply brandies since I started working at K&L, so it was a real treat to be invited there for dinner.  I felt right at home in their house and my stomach was able to exhale.  Rather than a glass of champagne and an introductory course of fois gras, Didier and Martine had a plate of peanut flavored cheetos and a bottle of pommeau (Calvados mixed with sweet apple cider) on the table.  Ahhhhh....finally a bit of relaxation.

Cheese and bacon toasties, salmon with braised leeks, chicken breast with potatoes and green beans, all served with pommeau, pear cider, apple cider, and fifty year old Calvados. I can't tell you how happy David and I were to be drinking cider instead of wine and apple brandy instead of Cognac.  We savored every bite and enjoyed the down-to-earth company of Lemorton.  We're going back tomorrow to dig through their cask inventory, but for now I'm content to rest in my cozy hotel room without ten pounds of duck fat in my stomach.  I've only gained about seven pounds so far, I think. 

-David Driscoll


France Day 6: To Boisé or not to Boisé

I was never really too clear about Cognac aging, but I knew that there wasn't much new wood involved.  They weren't using old Bourbon or old Sherry casks, yet many of the Cognacs we carried had dark, amber colored hues with rich, supple textures.  Sweetness in brandy, just like whisky, comes from the barrel, as does the color.  Bourbon tastes rich and sweet because it's put directly into new, heavily charred casks immediately after it's distilled where it remains until the day it's bottled.  Cognac goes into lightly charred casks for around five to twelve months before it's transfered into an older barrel.  New in Cognac terms can mean a barrel that's been used zero to four times - the more often it's been used, the longer the first maturation lasts to make up for the weaker wood influence. 

So.....if Cognac producers don't heavily char their casks to release more color and vanilla from the wood, and they don't leave their spirit in the "new" wood for very long, then where the heck is that color coming from?  The answer can be multifacted, but there's usually a creeping suspicion in these cases that something else is being added to the brandy.  In fact, with Cognac, it's perfectly legal to do so.  Besides the addition of caramel coloring to deepen the shade of brown, a substance called boisé is regularly added to intensify color, sweetness, and texture.  Boisé is a mixture of sugar, oak chips, and lower-proof brandy that is left to macerate in a barrel or tank.  The color is extracted from the oak ships and the boisé acts like a concentrated syrup which can make young Cognac both taste and appear older than it is. 

The terms VS, VSOP, and XO are used to help designate maturity on a Cognac bottle, but they're usually quite misleading.  VS simply means at least two years old, VSOP means at least four, and XO at least six.  However, the producers we're looking to buy from aren't releasing VS Cognacs under ten years old.  When tasting at the estates of the distillers, we generally ask which vintages the Cognacs are composed of, say a mix of 1991 with 1994, for example.  When a producer tells us a Cognac is comprised of 2004 with 2006 and the color looks like toffee, then we know what's being done to make it look that way.  There's a big difference between the flavor in pre-boisé and post-boisé CognacDavid and I have done some extensive cask tasting over the last few days and many of the Cognacs do not taste that great straight from the barrel. 

Now, although it may seem like cheating when compared to Bourbon, single malt, and Armagnac, the addition of boisé to one's Cognac doesn't necessarily mean that the brandy isn't good.  The most successful Cognacs in the world are loaded with it.  However, when it's used in younger Cognacs to add richness that wouldn't normally be there, the result can be quite terrible.  The reason producers do it, however, is because aging Grand Champagne Cognac takes FOREVER.  Like I stated in previous posts, we tasted some 60+ year old brandies from Dudognon (a producer that NEVER adds boisé) and they were still babies.  Using more new oak would destroy the delicate flavor from the high-quality grapes, so that's not an option either.  The answer is simply time, something that most producers don't have.

The Cognac market is very strong right now, which is why the price of Grand Champagne fruit is high.  Hennessy, Martel, and Remy are buying whatever they can get their hands on (usually very young Cognacs), adding loads of boisé, and pumping them overseas to awaiting night clubs.  The marketing departments are out there pushing the quality of the big houses, despite the fact that the quality is terrible compared to some of the smaller producers.

Anyway, it's something to think about.  We're obviously trying to go "zero boisé," but we're not going to turn down a fantastic Cognac if there happens to be some in it.  One more stop today and then we're on the road north to Normandie.

Until then....

-David Driscoll


France Day 5: Cognac & Business

Today was the day of reckoning for some of us.  I managed to get about seven hours of sleep, but Charles was up all night with a stomach ache, and Girard couldn't fall asleep until late.  We all missed our alarm clocks and breakfast was a struggle.  Nevertheless, we had an appointment at Dudognon and they're a Cognac we already carry and love.  The weather was cold and rainy, but we rallied to the cause.  Dudognon is run by Claudine Dudognon-Buraud and her husband, working at their small distillery nearby their quirky little home.

We tasted a few things out of the barrel, but quickly learned that Grande Champagne Cognac of this quality isn't really too great out of the cask.  It's too delicate and doesn't really show well at cask strength.

Their still is tiny and has a very long swan neck for a more elegant spirit.  They have chairs nearby to relax while they distill.  While we truly loved everything we tasted, we already knew that we wanted to carry their spirits.  They're some of the best we offer and now we know that great people are behind them. 

We made it over to another few producers, but we didn't see anything too worthwhile.  Now we're back in the hotel room, going over the samples, while Charles breaks down the pricing.  The pricing is looking good right now.  We've decided on about eight different expressions, including the 1900 vintage from Barailllon!  Look forward to some amazing brandies very soon.  Calvados tomorrow!

-David Driscoll


France Day 4: Out in Cognac

There's a huge difference between Cognac and Armagnac, and I'm talking about the regions rather the spirits.  Cognac is like Napa, with large estates, boutique farmers, and vineyards covering every inch of valueable Grand Champagne property.  Armagnac is like West Virginia in comparison - heavy forestation with backwoods country folk dwelling on pig farms, doing distillation if they have some spare time away from the corn field.  There is a big difference between the brandies of Cognac and Armagnac as well.  Here are a few things I learned today:

-Cognac producers like to make high alcohol wines because they can distill them to about 70% after two times through the still.  Remember that Armagnac producers don't like to water down the spirit, so they produce low alcohol wines that come of the still at a drinkable 50% or so.

-Cognac is produced on a pot still, so the heads and tails are cut and only the hearts are kept, much like single malt whisky.

-Terroir plays a huge role in Cognac.  Grand Champagne grapes, as opposed to Petit Champagne or Borderies grapes, produce wines with high acidity that result in spirits with the potential to age due to the chalky soils (Armagnac has very sandy soil).  Like a great Bordeaux, Grand Champagne Cognacs can age gracefully for sixty or seventy years before reaching their true potential.  The only difference is that the brandy must age in the cask.  We tasted a 59 year old at dinner last night that still tasted too austere.  It needed MORE time in the wood!

-Cognac barrels are toasted with a much lower char than Armagnac barrels.  The wood influence is therefore more mild.

-The wine made from ugni blanc in Cognac tastes nothing at all like wine.  I always imagined them distilling some drinkable, crisp white wine, but it's more like a yeasty lambic beer with insanely tart acidity.

-Vintages also play a big role in Cognac.  The more austere the vintage, the more austere the wine, the more austere the spirit, the longer it takes to age and open up.

A Cognac still looks much like an Armagnac alambic still, except that there are no column plates that re-introduce the heavier vapors back into the wine.  Unlike Armagnac, almost every Cognac producer has their own still somewhere on the property.  By producer, I mean a person who actually grows the grapes, makes the wine, and distills the spirit.  Hennessey, Remy Martin, or Martell for example are not producers.  They are houses who buy Cognac from actual producers and blend them into their own brands.  Cognac is much like Champagne in that it's completely controlled by a handful of large companies who dominate the market with heavy advertising.  For that reason, Brandy geeks usually side with Armagnac for more interesting flavors, but we managed to visit a few producers of note today who had some pretty spectacular stuff.

Our first stop of the morning was to Raymond Ragnaud, a producer whose Pineau des Charentes we've been carrying for sometime now.  The original Ragnaud Cognac was produced by the Ragnaud family, but when the two brothers Raymond and Marcel took over they were unable to work together.  The Domaine split and now there are two separate brands under the name of each brother.  Raymond Ragnaud is still produced on the original estate and is now overlooked by his daughter, Mrs. Ragnaud-Bricq pictured above. 

Jean-Marie has been the distiller at the property for the last thirty years.  He took us down into the cellar for some cask tasting and a lesson on barrel aging.  Like Armagnac, the Cognac producers believe in aerating the spirit by changing casks every six months to a year.  We tasted a few out of the cask, but Grand Champagne Cognac doesn't taste all that great in its youth - and by "youth," I mean anytime in the first twenty years of its life.  Usually the blends have more complexity because the young brandy is balanced by an older vintages.  We tasted some very fine blends that we might be bringing back to the states.  Their Reserve Rare was very gentle and tasted of toasted almonds with soft stone fruits.  We also enjoyed the Trés Vieille, which is made entirely of 1948 vintage brandy and has a rich, rancio finish.  Cognac finishes can last for minutes and evolve on the palate long after the spirit has vanished

Our next visit was to François Voyer, a small grower-producer in Grand Champagne not too far from Ragnaud.  They hold about 29 hectares of vineyard and another 15 outside the region from which they make Cognac from Hennessey.  Apparently, now is a good time to be a supplier for the big houses.  With the asian market increasing its demand, there simply isn't enough Cognac to go around.  That has increased prices and profitability for smaller producers like Voyer who can always sell off what they don't sell themselves. 

Cellar master Pierre Vaudon took us on a tour of the estate and took some cask samples for us.  We weren't too blown away by any one expression, but Cognac has never been about the single cask - it's a spirit based in the blend.  However, we still wanted something unique, so we decided to choose our favorite single casks and describe what we liked about them.  After a few hours, we had crafted together four different blends from various vintages and ages that were based on our recommendations and desires.  With any luck, we'll be bringing a few of these in on a larger scale later this summer.  The finesse of these brandies when put together is remarkable.

LUNCH TIME!  When in France....

Pulling up the road into Jaques Esteve's driveway, one would never think that there was Cognac being produced anywhere near the area.  Under the garage, however, there's a full scale operation going on.

Jaques was in the middle of distilling when we arrived and he's thrilled about the market at the moment.  He produces for both Remy and Hennessey and it's easy to see why they're both after his stuff.  Even though he's in Petit Champagne, he's located about one kilometer from the border of Grand Champagne so there's virtually no difference between his brandy and the best of the best.

Being in a bit of a hurry, we went right into the tasting bar to begin sampling his goods.  Boy, does Jaques ever have "the goods."  His Reserve Ancestrale is a blend of 1945, 1949, and 1950 vintages and is absolutely stunning.  The aromas are haunting, drifting between rancio, candied orange peel, and beautiful toffee notes.  The palate has massive flavor and richness.  We'll probably grab a few cases of this.

We asked Jaques if we could sample some casks and he looked at us like we were crazy.  "Why would you want to do that?" he asked.  He complained about getting spiderwebs all over his coat, but he acquiesed and agreed to take us out back and underneath the barn, down into the chai for some serious spelunking.  It was worth the effort.  Down in the dark was a simply awe-inspiring 1979 cask that was the best thing I've yet to taste on this trip.  A powerful, woody Cognac with pencil shavings and sweet fruit on the nose, along side dark chocolate, almonds, earth, and citrus on the palate.  The finish lasted for ten minutes and I almost hit my head on the ceiling as I jumped up with joy.  We'll be taking this one.

The rest of the evening we spent with a negotiant with whom we'll be working on a few special labels just for us.  We all had dinner at a fantastic Michelin starred restaurant in downtown Cognac before calling it a day.  More awaits us tomorrow.  Until then.

-David Driscoll